so I got a text from a good friend yesterday asking if I want his clean 2k jeep cherokee...
what I know about it... 4.0l i6, auto, rwd... a/c doesn't work, the heater core is going (mists/smells of coolant), a pretty good oil leak somewhere, and at the moment it doesn't start...
he said it would randomly not start in the evenings, he'd wait a few min and then it would crank up no prob... never an issue in the morning... until the morning that it just wouldn't start... so I get to see whats going on soon over at his house...
pictures will follow :)
where you been, brother?!?!
lurking... and living the apartment life... :(... should be in a house this summer at which time I hope to be picking up a miata as well... lol.
in the mean time i've been flying rc airplanes and built my first rc car...
A look into your future.
Go ahead and pull the steering column and center console to give yourself enough room to get the dash completely out.
No start issue is probably crankshaft position sensor or neutral safety switch. Oil leak is probably rear main seal, oil pan gasket, valve cover gasket or oil filter adapter o-ring.
The 4.0 is a tank and overall the rest of the Jeep is too. I've owned many of them.
I am so glad to see you back. You have definitely been missed.
Don't the tanks around that age range have a little piston and head cracking habit?
Every car is built around the heater core. That's just how it is.
In reply to bigdaddylee82 :
You don't have to pull the column or even the entire dash, though the center consol does need to go. Dropping the column on the drivers seat and hanging the passenger side dash with a couple of bungee cords gives you plenty of room to pull the heater box and saves a fair amount of time.
Keith Tanner said:
Every car is built around the heater core. That's just how it is.
Except the E series van. I can do a heater core in one of them in 40 minutes and 10 of those is fighting the stupid quick hose connectors.
untchabl said:
No start issue is probably crankshaft position sensor or neutral safety switch. Oil leak is probably rear main seal, oil pan gasket, valve cover gasket or oil filter adapter o-ring.
The 4.0 is a tank and overall the rest of the Jeep is too. I've owned many of them.
I'll second this. The crank sensor will make you wish you had an extra joint in your forearm, although fortunately it's just two bolts on top of the bellhousing that hold it in place.
I kinda miss my Cherokee.
Don't ever overheat the engine
nope, nope, nope
untchabl said:
No start issue is probably crankshaft position sensor or neutral safety switch. Oil leak is probably rear main seal, oil pan gasket, valve cover gasket or oil filter adapter o-ring.
The 4.0 is a tank and overall the rest of the Jeep is too. I've owned many of them.
for the no start... just talked to him real quick... it won't crank at all... would that be cam sensor, seems it should crank... which would put it more likely the neutral switch... I'll check the standard stuff first but I've read some on the neutral switch.
In reply to Keith Tanner :
yes apparently the later year heads had some cracking issues.. but I've also read that at this point/age if they haven't cracked they likely won't... or they've already been replaced lol...
buzzboy
HalfDork
1/22/19 10:39 p.m.
I've now done 2 CPS on mine, hoping to fix a no-start. I used a 24" extension with a ujoint on a deepwell for the bottom bolt then I added an 8" extension before the ujoint for the top bolt. Took me all of 10 minutes. You just have to figure out what holes to aim for between the clutch line, exhaust, crossmember etc. Luckily I've got petite wrists(and huge hands) and I could start the bolts by hand from the top then tighten them from below with the 24-32" of extension.
That engine has the 0331 head. IIRC, it's estimated that around 30% will crack. And the cracking is random, not necessarily caused by overheating. Some go at 100k, some make it past 200k. Crack is usually on the top side of the head, so the symptoms are coolant in oil and coolant loss, but no smoke or running issues. If it's caught early it's just a head swap (not a huge deal). If it's not caught early, it can end up trashing the bearings.
untchabl said:
Oil leak is probably rear main seal, oil pan gasket, valve cover gasket or oil filter adapter o-ring.
So yeah, I have replaced all of those and it still leaks from the front somewhere. I have simply accepted the leak and named it Marvin.
In reply to pinchvalve :
Have you checked the front crank seal and oil pressure sender? Those are about about the only things left that could leak that I can think of.
And if it does need a new head there's always an upgrade option to think about
https://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/50169/10002/-1
buzzboy said:
And if it does need a new head there's always an upgrade option to think about
https://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/50169/10002/-1
I knew they existed, but never priced them. Yikes!
A 1UZ-FE is supposed to bolt to the AW4 isn't it? I've seen a handful of Lexus V8 XJs, I think that $1,800 would be better spent toward something like that.
2JZ in an XJ with the AW4 has also been done once IIRC.
Also the AW4 has a really simple control system, 2 solenoids control the 4 forward gears, so manumatic systems are pretty simple, if you're into that kind of thing.
got my first look at it since it becoming "mine"
bealive it's a 2k has about 190k miles, TONS of oil buidup in the engine bay... once it's running I'll work on that.... it's very clean for how many miles it has, it was a 1 owner car, given to my friend by his father in law after losing their house and cars in hurricane harvey... my buddy isn't mechanically inclined and doesn't like getting greasy so when he looked under the car at the starter that was caked with grease he noped out... I offered to fix it several times but he just wanted something newer and this thing gone...
like I said it's clean, has the Chrysler rear end which is stronger than the dana option... when I get a chance I'll look for an LSD tag on it, the car has a full size but non matching spare tire, 29" tires on it, looking under the car I could see zero rust... I belive his father in law is also from Cali... so cali and houston car for it's entire life = nice for no rust... er except possibly some light surface run along the rain gutter rails, I need to look closer at that, also not uncommon to mopar cars of the time the clear coat has some pretty good ware on the roof...
with some looking at it I belive the starter is dead, I started pulling it today but thanks to the awesome apartment life I was missing a few tools... i've got all but one bolt off the starter, will go back tomm to test it off the car a bit more thoughly and also have the battery checked again (he took it in but I want to make sure they did a load test), once I get this Fixed I'll work on the other issues, the a/c doesn't work and in houston that is a big deal, the heater core has a leak (mists into the car when heat is on)... i'm debating on trying one of those "quick fix" type jobs on it... sadly between rain and how cold winters CAN get I'd like to keep the heat, mostly for defrost.
it is pretty nice that I'm able to crawl under the thing to work on it with it still on the ground (for those that don't recall/know i'm a 6'4 300# dude)... I'd rather a bit more room but my hydro jack is missing a piece right now (got missplaced in the move, I saw it a while ago and put it somewhere "safe"... i'll have to dig in the storage shed to get it back up...
