Project WTFDIDWTDT

In for "Dirty F350" build thread, Woody style.

Fix it up man!

http://www.5startuning.com/index.html

Talk with Mike from 5Star. Never hear anyone complain about his stuff.

I know it ain't the same model, but here's an Idea

Unless you need a tow rig, sell it. You'll get some good money for it to put into a more sporting project.

In reply to amg_rx7:

What's not sporty about a 6500# diesel powered tear your house off it's wheels truck?

I keep thinking back on this thread and 4bt and pre-96 F150 would be a nice combo to have.....

I love new parts....

Now to just get the time to install them.

snap_understeer wrote: I know it ain't the same model, but here's an Idea

Holy crap! How far was that race? One minute, eight seconds? Dayum.

Here we go again, NEW PARTS!!! And they are installed this time!

On today's 5 minutes of being able to work on it, cab lights. The ones were original Ford items and they LEAKED. Originally, I just got some new gaskets, but they I really got to looking....

Old ones, pretty nasty:

New vs old:

Nastiness under the old lights:

After a quick cleaning with some "borrowed" All Purpose Cleaner from a previous dealership:

Finished product:

It may be not much, but for $37 at NAPA for the exact same lights as OEM, which are $40/each from Ford, the cab shouldn't leak when it rains anymore. Now I just need to get some non rusty screws, but that will have to wait until I make a run to Tractor Supply.

I like where this thread is going, please continue...

Mini worthless update:

Tractor Supply run this morning for screws completed!

Previous hardware:

New hardware:

Best part about this, $1.63 spent.

As much as I do NOT like the idea of splicing brake lines, I need this "driveable". So hopefully I can pick up a 30" piece of line and union to make this happen and incur another update.

Well, finally it's update time!

In this episode of "How the line bends", we will see why and how the brake line going to the rear brakes needed repair.

First up, the why:

Well, it spent considerable time driving around on salty MI roads for a few years, then sat in this humid and hot climate for a few more. So we have RUST. Rust causes pinholes. Pinholes makes all my happy I-need-to-stop juice go bubye.

The place I am going to splice, plus a shot of all the nice scale that awaits...

How close I was able to copy the original.

My bending die for this project, which worked awesome.

Final product until I can snake it back in and finish tightening it up.

And just remember, I hate bending brake lines.

The NAPA near me has line thats Copper coated on the outside, it's not the high $$ conifer stuff the english car guys like but it does seem to last longer then the zinc plated stuff. I'd get you part number but they closed up this past week....Crap no place to buy 5gall cans of race fuel now.

Nice job Ranger!

My Chevy came out of north Georgia and had the same smegma all ovedr it. I power washed what I could, disassembled under the cowl and cleaned that all out. I still have that funk between the cab and the box, did you get yours clean there?

Dan

In reply to 914Driver:

Probably not. I don't have a "magic stick" to get back in there to clean it. So, I am going to wait until I break the bed free and get to frame cleaning before I tackle that job. Just sucks having to probably torch the 5th wheel rail bolts to get the bed off.

So, it's the hottest damn day of the year so far and here I am working on this thing without any shade. I did at least drag out the fan to have some breeze as there is not any to be found.

After snaking this bad boy back in, I find the new piece is 1.5" too LONG. So, break out the cutting wheel and make it fit. Then promptly jam the flare in crooked and cause a leak. Oh well, just a quick loosening and tightening fixes that leak.

Then onto the actual wheels and drums. It was a dang good thing I was the last one to work on it. Everything came off like buttah. Just sucks having 8 lugs per wheel to take off like 3" long "FINE" thread studs. Even the wheels didn't fight being oxidized to the drum either, especially when you have one of these:

Anyways got one drum off and find a surprise inside like a Cracker Jack box....

And the other one too.

That would explain the funky emergency brakes all these years.

And how much fun it was today....

So far, I have just gravity bled the system and the pedal is much, much, much better. Just waiting for it to cool off from the 92-93F temps to fully bled the rears out and get this bastard moving and STOPPING under its own power for the first time in at least 5 years....

Rain, rain go away and come back after I can finish installing these wheels.

Finally got the brakes bled last night after a cookout, at 9pm, in the dark, with a pounding alcohol induced headache, with the wife's help.... If the dang rain would stop long enough for me to torque the wheels down to 150 ft/lbs, I could drive this beotch down the back alley. And promptly figure out what is next to be fixed.

What a berkeleying turd. School bus turning radius, locomotive stopping distances, sundial acceleration rates, and I still wouldn't part with it.

Where is that money tree, so I can mod this damn thing?

Ok... I haven't exactly put in a ton of time in updating this thread, but I have been chasing down a miss in the meantime.

Here is what I posted over on one of the Powerstroke forums today....

Ranger50 said: Figure I would update with what I have done and found out in the meantime. First off, I checked out the EBPV. It is open and now unplugged. Soon it will be gutted. Secondly, I put some new fuel in it and it ran better, but still had a miss. I put about 35 miles on it very carefully, since it doesn't have plates on it. Thirdly, I did the dirty deed of putting in some ATF, about 1/2qt, to the oil to get rid of any residual gunk that might be hanging an injector up. That move greatly helped out the prolonged starting I was having. It reduced the 10sec start to about 2sec now and that is without any GPR help. The GPR has been DOA since about 02. Fourthly, I don't know why I was looking, but I searched for fixing a possibly loose poppet on one or more of the injectors. Searching through this thread: Injector poppet screw squirt results - PowerStrokeNation : Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum I found the listed electrical values of 2.8-3.2 ohms for the solenoids. I thought hell why not check it out. It's free and shouldn't take much more then 15 minutes to check. I whip out the Fluke and get to work. All but #1, the first one I checked too, pass, #1 shows 0.5ohms. So, I assume/think/believe I have found the culprit to my miss. Now to find a decent used injector cheap.

After fixing the injector, I guess I should fix the steering as it loves to pull to the right. Oh, and a set of tires.

Ok back at it because I got bored and need to kill some time today....

What was on today's agenda? Making a rear end look pretty again.

What the starting point looked like:

What the inside looked like, which was pretty damn good given it has 214k on it:

Finished up:

The new cover is from an '08 SuperDuty. Plus it is only $65 compared to the $200+ for a Mag-Hytec or similar cover. Of course with the new THICKER cover, new bolts are required. The SD uses a 5/16-18 by 1.40" bolts. So, I order a 5/16-18x1.50" Gr5 flanged bolt from Mcmaster-Carr. Worse comes to worse I might only need one washer to take up the extra length. HAH! Good thing at Tractor Supply I bought 25 Gr8 washers.... Because it took TWO washers to take up the extra length. Oh well, next ordering go round will be some 1.25" length bolts to replace these.

The cover was sealed using some leftover Mopar gray engine and gear sealant. Gear oil was some leftover Mopar 75w140 from previous jobs and some freebie oil from the Ford dealer. Now, I just need some "whale sperm"....