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Fitzauto
Fitzauto Dork
10/19/16 9:52 a.m.

As the title says. Looking for options for my 280zx. Leaning towards a 2jzge turbo conversion because I can get the motor in local yards for cheap.

1uz and some bmw engines are possibilities as well.

chaparral
chaparral Dork
10/19/16 9:55 a.m.

GM L33 aluminum 5.3 liter V8.

Bobzilla
Bobzilla UltimaDork
10/19/16 9:57 a.m.
chaparral wrote: any GM truck LSx

fixed that for you. 450hp is a cam swap away on most of those.

z31maniac
z31maniac MegaDork
10/19/16 9:59 a.m.

Doesn't get cheaper than an LSx

Trackmouse
Trackmouse Dork
10/19/16 10:00 a.m.

It's true. While I love hearing a straight 6 sing, a scarab swap is what that chassis needs. Just make sure you fix that BarcaLounger rear suspension before hand

NOHOME
NOHOME PowerDork
10/19/16 10:02 a.m.
Fitzauto wrote: As the title says. Looking for options for my 280zx. Leaning towards a 2jzge turbo conversion because I can get the motor in local yards for cheap. 1uz and some bmw engines are possibilities as well.

Unless you drop "cheap" as a requirement, you KNOW there is only one answer to your question. The "Yo-bro 2JZ" crowd has assured that any 2jz is not going to be cheaper than an LSx. Plus you are assuming that the junkyard engine with its turbos and electronics is going to be perfect out of the box.

Fitzauto
Fitzauto Dork
10/19/16 10:03 a.m.

In reply to Trackmouse:

Its getting an s13 rear subframe.

Only thing holding back sn LS is the sound (I love a straight 6) and transmission price

chaparral
chaparral Dork
10/19/16 10:09 a.m.

How about a GM Atlas inline 6?

I chose the L33 because it's lighter and may have better cooling than the iron-block engines.

Fitzauto
Fitzauto Dork
10/19/16 10:14 a.m.

Well turns on the ls doesnt play well with the steering stuff in the 280zx.

Appleseed
Appleseed MegaDork
10/19/16 10:16 a.m.

Transmissions are cheap as long as you aren't hung up on a T-56.

JTNWEvo
JTNWEvo New Reader
10/19/16 10:24 a.m.

Are there any readily available manual transmissions that you can run behind an LSx? T-56 prices are sky high.

mad_machine
mad_machine GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
10/19/16 10:33 a.m.

I do not know about 455hp.. but I know a stock S54 from an E46 can net you 330ish.

How bad does a V8 interfere with the steering?

yupididit
yupididit GRM+ Memberand HalfDork
10/19/16 10:34 a.m.

What is "cheap" to you?

crxmike
crxmike Reader
10/19/16 10:34 a.m.
Bobzilla wrote:
chaparral wrote: any GM truck LSx
fixed that for you. 450hp is a cam swap away on most of those.

For the uninformed, can you share which cam can get my tired Yukon over 400hp? Need any supporting mods or tune?

Fitzauto
Fitzauto Dork
10/19/16 10:50 a.m.

In reply to mad_machine:

From what the quick reading Ive done looks like either need a custom header for the drivers side or a U-joint to move the column over. Doesnt seem hard or am I crazy

Keith Tanner
Keith Tanner GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
10/19/16 10:57 a.m.

The LS engines need strong transmissions because of the power/torque level. If you want to play at that level,you're going to need a strong trans.

If there's a non-T56 trans that you like that will hold up to the power, then get creative with adapters.

I'm a little skeptical on aftermarket claims of LS engine prowess, personally. I've dynoed a "400 rwhp, easy" engine at 350. I've had almost every aftermarket hop-up part bolted to an LS fail, including things like rockers breaking while I was cruising at 30 mph. They're great engines, but the engineers working for GM are better than the engineers working in the aftermarket in this case. Also, I found the 5.3 quite a disappointing engine, much weaker than the LS1.

The GM ASA cam works with stock LS3 valve springs and I've dynoed it at 466 hp at the wheels in an otherwise stock LS3.

kb58
kb58 Dork
10/19/16 11:35 a.m.

My brother's dead-stock LS3 in his Locost puts down 430 whp. The only changes were an ECU tweek, and obviously different intakes and exhaust.

Trackmouse
Trackmouse Dork
10/19/16 11:49 a.m.

The answer, then, is 1uzfe. 300hp if you get a phaseIII vvti. 250hp for phase I and it'll boost to the moon. Only 7psi away from 550hp.

Both can be had for less than 500$, and re entire swap can be done for less than 2k. (Not counting turbocharging) but even when that's factored in, you'll STILL be less than an ls1 swap.

RossD
RossD UltimaDork
10/19/16 12:03 p.m.

Find a clapped out LS1 Crammit (ie: Camaro). They're still out there and in some cases even cheaper than previously.

JBasham
JBasham Reader
10/19/16 12:21 p.m.

I don't know 450 HP for cheap. I guess my definition of cheap might be pretty cheap though, especially since I don't turbocharge. Also, I'm looking for light weight, defined as a motor and trans that weighs the same as, or less than, the stock setup. I really feel that's a key issue because I start with a great handling chassis and I don't want to upset the balance. Horsepower off the apex only covers a certain amount of sketchy handling.

Also I have mixed thoughts about BMW motor swaps. I did one and I'm happy with it. But the BMW motors, and parts to maintain one, are always more expensive than domestic or Japanese. There's no Summit Racing or JEGS for BMW. Also 450 horsepower is an awful lot to ask from a BMW motor and transmission.

I do know a little about the steering shaft and exhaust issues with motor swaps and with putting an 8 in a 6 bay. I would rate it as medium hard. If you have a gas-shielded MIG, not a cheapo flux only rig, and at least the minimum tools needed to cut and shape exhaust tubing for multi-angle curves, then it just comes down to your skills butt-welding that stuff into some very weird shapes. It is always easier to take an aftermarket header that fits the motor and start chopping it as necessary. Or in my case I'm using two passenger-side aftermarket headers, with the left one exiting towards the radiator and around the front. Here's one in the rough-in stage a few months ago.

The internet will scream at you that your headers and everything else must be perfect or it won't scavenge and you'll kill your engine output. That may be true, but check out Engine Masters episode 4 on YouTube, where they put a small block V8 on an engine dyno and proceed to mangle the hell out of the headers. Power stays the same and torque goes up.

Some times there are other things you can move too. I moved my ABS pump to the front of the engine bay. It was a PITA to extend all the brake lines, but it just takes time and $60 worth of cutting and flaring tools. Or sometimes just dumping the stock shaft and U-joints in favor of slimmer hot rod aftermarket stuff makes things clearance fine, without re-routing the angle or using a bent shaft. Putting in a 90-degree oil filter adapter can also make a difference. I have seen some guys relocate the brake booster to the front of the engine bay, but I haven't gone that far thus far.

patgizz
patgizz GRM+ Memberand UltimaDork
10/19/16 12:40 p.m.

Goals for car? Weight?

450hp is more than most people realize.

My s30 is 2750 with me in it, 50.7/49.3 f/r weight with me in it with iron block aluminum head 5.3. It screams. Any more low end would render street tires useless for any kind of traction.

BrokenYugo
BrokenYugo UltimaDork
10/19/16 12:54 p.m.
JTNWEvo wrote: Are there any readily available manual transmissions that you can run behind an LSx? T-56 prices are sky high.

Any trans that will bolt to a SBC will bolt to a LSx, you can even get a (heavy) cheap factory flywheel that will let you use the old style clutches.

The problem is there aren't many cheap (say, sub $500 all in) Chevy sticks that will handle a mild LSx. NP A-833 OD from an 80s half ton truck would probably work, based on a Mopar trans, very wide ratios though. Or the NV3500 from a S10 or half ton (these were actually offered behind the 4.8 at some point), but 1st (something like 3.5-4 depending on what it came out of) is pretty useless in a car.

Next up in price is a Muncie M20/M21 or Super T10 (the Super is important), more like $500-$1k+. Or maybe a Ford toploader (there exists an adapter plate to bolt one to a Chevy bell).

Now if you want to be the coolest kid on the block you can probably only spend T56 money hunting down a used Jerico 4 speed (or other various surplus NASCAR transmissions, Tex Racing T101A, G-Force GF4A, etc.) dogbox if you're really patient.

Fitzauto
Fitzauto Dork
10/19/16 1:22 p.m.

Considering I have a 6.0 short block already I think thats the cheap route. It does need machine work so now is the time to decide if I should keep,it stock or go stroker.

mad_machine
mad_machine GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
10/19/16 1:56 p.m.

considering balance.. the V8 is shorter than the I6.. so I imagine that even a moderate weight gain will be still be further back in the chassis than stock. With the Battery up front, you can move that into the hatch area as well to help balance the car

GTXVette
GTXVette Reader
10/19/16 2:05 p.m.

I actually have an old Scarab Bell housing, they use the lower clutch arm you need. I think it only fits the LT engines (265-400 or Big block Chevy. Patgizz has one now with an ls from what I've read, listen to him. with the power to weight you have a cheap 3 speed from a chevy truck would work. I also have a rare(sorta) toploader ford that is an overdrive, I bought it as a 4 speed and it is, Also my first lesson in Top loaders,My bell won't fit an ls or ford,so I got stuff for sale.

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