So many cars in our world fit into the same category as our 1991 Toyota MR2: They’re a little crusty underneath, but not bad enough or valuable enough to warrant a bare-tub restoration.
Or the other scenario: They’re destined for a life on track, where they’ll need some protection from rocks and debris while fending off further environmental damage. …
I was not planning on doing anything like this. I am now planning on doing this. Thanks for the write-up.
matthewmcl said:I was not planning on doing anything like this. I am now planning on doing this. Thanks for the write-up.
Yeah, same. There are few things I hate worse than anything to do with a paint gun. But this stuff is so easy to work with and the results are so instant and positive it actually made the process fun.
Hmm, that looks really good.
Awesome! I'm going to need to do something similar with my Subaru soon.
Any product that elicits both a "so easy anyone can do it" and a "why didn't I do this sooner" reaction goes on my short list of things to buy.
How does the stoneguard compare to Por15? Process for both seems similar.
Olemiss540 said:How does the stoneguard compare to Por15? Process for both seems similar.
POR15 is a single step, this is a two-step. I prefer the finish of the Fertan stuff to POR15. It cures more evenly with no streaks, and I like that it has some texture. I'd wager it's also more protective, although only time is going to be the judge of that.
Really the biggest difference for me was how easy this stuff was to use. I would have zero fear about putting the car up on the lift and doing some touchups with no drop cloth or no masking or anything. POR15 is not nearly as forgiving.
I think POR-15 is two step if you really want to do it right - you should hit it with phosphoric acid first. POR gives it a different name but that's what it is. It's a good choice for things like roll bars and a Locost chassis, but this sounds like a better choice for an undercoat refresh.
Keith Tanner said:I think POR-15 is two step if you really want to do it right - you should hit it with phosphoric acid first. POR gives it a different name but that's what it is. It's a good choice for things like roll bars and a Locost chassis, but this sounds like a better choice for an undercoat refresh.
This is a 3 step (decrease, rust convert, paint) exactly like POR 15 unless I missed something.
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