I have done the magnet route. I bought a roll and shared one year at the challenge. Some lost them on track. I use the magnets on my rally cross car. I occasionally have to dig them out of the mud.
I have done the magnet route. I bought a roll and shared one year at the challenge. Some lost them on track. I use the magnets on my rally cross car. I occasionally have to dig them out of the mud.
stan_d wrote: I have done the magnet route. I bought a roll and shared one year at the challenge. Some lost them on track. I use the magnets on my rally cross car. I occasionally have to dig them out of the mud.
Umm, yeah.
So, it's a problem when they stick, and also a problem when they don't?
You aren't leaving many options ...
In reply to SVreX:
Well, it will end up meeting the wheelbase rule anyway, because after I built the subframe to mount the RX7 Turbo rear suspension, it turns out that the axle line is almost three inches behind the previous location, so I'll meet the 85 inch requirement. The body goes back a corresponding three inches and mounting will not matter as it has sat on 2 inch aluminum blocks off the frame in the previous version (to clear the drivetrain). So all the body mounts will be moved back accordingly and the bonnet extended by three inches. Biggest benefit? I can run much bigger front tires as anything wider than a 205 would hit the body in the previous location.
Cool.
SVreX wrote: My solution was to get some sheet magnetic material (the raw stock for magnetic signs), and stuck the vinyl on the magnetic sheets. We then stuck the magnets to the car (and could move them around as we pleased).
I did the same thing in 2002 and lost a couple of magnet-stickers at the drags. :-(
In reply to AngryCorvair:
Yeah, but did you loose any paint?? 
In reply to SVreX:
only when i opened the door into the fender of the tow dolly. :-(
you need to run a strip of vinyl on the leading edge as not break wind 
So... are there going to be any rules posted for the Last Chance Challenge Class - or we not allowed to see them until one week before the event??? 
I really like the idea of finding a clapped out Craigslist E30 or Miata and somehow driving it from Texas to Florida... but even I think I might need a week or two to make it reliable enough to travel 1500 miles...
I carefully warm the decals with a heat gun when removing.
I repaint every year, problem solved
The car won't be there this year as there is too much to do, but thought you all might like to see a picture. The Turbo RX7 rear will work just fine (thanks Andy N.), just need to do some body work to make it fit and then build some fiberglass fender flares to cover the wider wheels that will go under this thing. I lowered the body all the way down today, fit surprisingly well!
Gearheadotaku wrote: I carefully warm the decals with a heat gun when removing.
Did that. I dunno. I got over it. Found paint kits on ebay for $70, which means I can find them cheaper.
Hi, sorry guys–Rick is out sick. I should be able to answer some questions, though.
We use the exact same number panels (seriously, the ones nobody picks up because their car broke) occassionally for track days and such with our project cars. We've never had an issue with them pulling paint off, but I can easily see how they could hurt a, um, "budget" paint job.
Ben, you've had a lot of unfortunate struggles with your challenge car, so I'll give you a $50 paint credit to use towards fixing the sticker damage. Print out this forum post and include it with your build documentation. Next year, we might just name a rule after you that says to stick the panels on your T-shirt and/or wax your car before applying them.
F1jim64 wrote: So... are there going to be any rules posted for the Last Chance Challenge Class - or we not allowed to see them until one week before the event???
Until Rick gets back, here's the answer:
At this point, you play by the same rules as the rest of the field. But you have your own class to compete in. If it isn't obvious who's eligible, we'll make the call at the time of the event.
I would have had that class in the bag last year. I'd go for it again this year, but I like my gf a lot and I think two years in a row of that stress wouldn't be very fair to her.
Tom Suddard wrote: Hi, sorry guys–Rick is out sick. I should be able to answer some questions, though. We use the exact same number panels (seriously, the ones nobody picks up because their car broke) occassionally for track days and such with our project cars. We've never had an issue with them pulling paint off, but I can easily see how they could hurt a, um, "budget" paint job. Ben, you've had a lot of unfortunate struggles with your challenge car, so I'll give you a $50 paint credit to use towards fixing the sticker damage. Print out this forum post and include it with your build documentation. Next year, we might just name a rule after you that says to stick the panels on your T-shirt and/or wax your car before applying them.
I'll print this out, will include with $2015 documentation. Don't have time to fix paint things this year. (And this way you can see it in person!)
If the paint weren't factory and something i had done myself, i wouldn't have said a word, i promise. (And it was hella waxed, y0. Water was sheeting off of it for almost a year afterwards)
In fact, i can't hardly wait to see the hilarious huge sheets that will undoubtably come off in 2015 when i apply the vinyls the same way on a paint job that i did myself. Because i know nothing about paint. 
Appreciate it Tom. 
No problem, I'm sorry about the troubles you've all had with the stickers. We'll give them another look. Oh, and I forgot my smiley faces in the earlier posts. Here we go: 
I think we should set up a free wrapping station for any car that has paint issues due to the decals. 
Brakes - Do the replacement brakes need to be OEM, or OEM type spec, or can they be whatever we need to replace the parts with an "oem equivalent replacement"?
Example: We have replaced the brake rotors with aftermarket blank rotors, nothing fancy. I am assuming this is OK?
For the brake pads: Do they need to be OEM, or can we replace them with something like a Hawk performance street pad?
Performance improvement = in the budget
Yes. You can't put better pads in for free.
Tom Suddard wrote: No problem, I'm sorry about the troubles you've all had with the stickers. We'll give them another look. Oh, and I forgot my smiley faces in the earlier posts. Here we go:
Call the rule the "Swank Force Skank Paint Rule."
aussiesmg wrote: Performance improvement = in the budget
Right, but the rules are extremely vague on the whole "replacement brake parts" thing. Just clarifying ;)
Circuit_Motorsports wrote:aussiesmg wrote: Performance improvement = in the budgetRight, but the rules are extremely vague on the whole "replacement brake parts" thing. Just clarifying ;)
Huh???
Looks pretty specific to me:
GRM $20XX Challenge rules said: Brake friction materials, lines, calipers, master cylinders, rotors and drums may be replaced with fresh ones that are functional duplicates. The purpose of this rule is to allow for fresh brake components, not to allow for budget shenanigans. For example, original brake parts cannot be sold and then rebought to take advantage of this allowance.
The cheapest rotors for the Camaro at $13 each on rockauto had some funky wave pattern machined in them. Can I get a antiperformance bling credit in my budget?
Anyone else going down from the North East?
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