TSW Wheels...

I recently picked up a set of TSW wheels second hand to run on my STI for autocross and light track duty. The deal was too good to pass up. They are 76.0mm hub bore, which is a really odd size. It's been a complete PITA to find aluminum hubcentric rings in that fitment. They basically don't exist. I was wondering before why nobody really runs TSW wheels for any real performance application and I think I found at least part of the answer. I ended up having Discount Tire order me a set of rings but they are plastic.

Has anyone else ran into this?

76mm is actually really common for aftermarket wheels. You don't need aluminum. I have the hard plastic ones and they've never broke. Track, autocross, rally...

The plastic ones are fine for street and autox, but I've melted them on track due to the brake heat.

Dunno about scoobies, but on Miatas you really don't need the centering rings. They make it easier to install the wheels, but the location is done by the lugs.

I should clarify. 76.0mm isn't that rare, but 76.0 to 56.1mm rings are nearly impossible to find.

codrus wrote: you really don't need the centering rings. They make it easier to install the wheels, but the location is done by the lugs.

This. I usually just throw them in the trash.

Over the years I have used plastic and metal rings. For autocross and street, at least, plastic has been fine fine.

The Enkei PF07's I was looking at utilize the same 76mm bore. Consensus seems to be that the hub centric rings don't really matter with conical lug nuts.

I would, however, be interested in seeing the weights of the TSW's, especially if they're one of the "rotary forged" ones, as the STi runs the same pattern, size and offset as my MS3. I like the designs of a few of them but stated weights are basically the same as my stock wheels minus maybe a pound which isn't enough for me to shell out some cash for them.

You all do realize that the studs and lug nuts are supposed to hold the wheels in place, right?

The rings just help get things lined up while putting it together, especially if you're unlucky enough to have wheel bolts. As long as you're careful about hand tightening the lug nuts so they are all seated evenly before being snugged up with a ratchet or spinner before the final torquing you shouldn't ever have any issues.

I've melted the plastic ones on the track.

I've used plastic with no issues for autocross. I always used the centering rings after knowing of a few people with various make cars have wheel stud issues when not running the rings. The center hub does help with the loads on the studs when driven hard. I have personally machined down rings to get the size i needed. I did it on a brake lathe at work. I have also taken a smaller spacer, opened the inner diameter to fit the hub, then put another spacer with the correct diameters to fit the smaller spacer and the wheel. Probably not the best engineered way to do it but it worked well. Maybe you could modify some in a similar manner? Or know someone who could do it for you?

I've run TSW wheels on my Mustang for 6 years. I mainly use those wheels for street use, but I have done many autocrosses and even a track day on them.

I have the rotary-forged "Nurburgring" design. They are ridiculously light, like 17 pounds for an 18x8" wheel.

In reply to Sky_Render:

That's the data point I was looking for, thanks. I think the stated weight is upwards of 25lbs for that combination though which nets me no gain. I wonder why they're stated to be 30% heavier?