Pulled a plug to read wear in them. Somw sort of wierd 4 electrode ngk.
According to rockauto, these are oe style.
Any reason not to go with a normal style plug? The porcelain around the tip is visibly cracked, so may as well replace them....
Pulled a plug to read wear in them. Somw sort of wierd 4 electrode ngk.
According to rockauto, these are oe style.
Any reason not to go with a normal style plug? The porcelain around the tip is visibly cracked, so may as well replace them....
Sound like platinums
Dirtydog said:Maybe this can help some. Congrats on your new ride. I suspect you won't get as "involved" as the "Magic Mike" pickup. Although I doubt it.
That may be worth looking into Mike
If you want lots of weird ignition codes, use whatever you want. If you prefer to avoid that, use the proper OE plugs.
I suggest FCP Euro as a better source than RockAuto, if only because they are generally less likely to offer subpar options. Plus everything comes with a lifetime warranty, even spark plugs.
In reply to klodkrawler05 :
PO had a pic of an invoice on his phone for cooling system replacement parts, and they looked in good shape with no leaks. That said, I have no personal guarantee they are new in the last 50k
What type of seat repair? My E39 had an issue where only one side of the seat would go up or down. It turned out to be a motor issue of course. It's called the BMW "twist" and there are a bunch of repair articles about this.
The entire cooling system visually appears in good shape.
Is there any reason NOT to go with aluminium replacement parts the next time it gets serviced?
As far as the seat: it has seat twist (which is apparently common and free to fix) as well as the seat not moving forward or backwards. That doesn't seem too common, and hopefully easy to sort. However, running and inspected and registered comes first.
Tjank you all for the vacuum threads! Very, very useful. As soon as i can get this inside, i will get the buold thread started. (What the hell, i do one for everything except the lawnmower). Im hoping theres a lot less build than the truck.....
Keep the info coming yall! Im sure theres others learning from this besides me.
100k is the accepted interval for the cooling system. Radiator, hoses, thermostat, expansion tank, water pump, fan clutch. Do it all, do it once, and forget it for another 100k miles. Not quite as much danger with the M52 (iron block) as the later M54 (aluminum block), but still best to avoid a failure and possible head warpage.
Fresh plugs before work seem to have cleaned up the misfires at idle in the driveway. Old plugs were only hand tight.
Also put in some drygas since problem started after rain and car parked.
Fixed a broken vacuum line.
Will ckear codes and report back.
God bless teleconference. Especially one's that are mandatory but dont apply to my department....
Car runs a lot better. A lot. Much more power.
P0154 came on within about 200 yards, but no other codes after 6 miles and a fair bit of Italian tune up.
So that ones next. Jim swapped all the 02 sensors chasing that code, so ill start upstream of that. Ideas?
how does it run with the P0154 present? Might be a berkeleyit code.
In reply to AngryCorvair :
Unfortunately it fails inspection with any codes. So, no berkeleyit codes......
Where was the broken vac line? Just curious, but I bet it was either next to stuff that gets hot or way under the intake manifold somewhere. Or that y shaped intake hose I gave you a spare of
Right above exhaust manifolds at the 02 sensors
Not that I trust it, but the generic P0154 code is for O2 sensor no activity, bank 2, sensor 1. Back the insulation on that sensor and stick volt meter in there to see what it's doing. Should be rapidly switching back and forth between about .3 and .7, give or take (sensor needs to remain attached to the wiring harness, otherwise the DME won't be adjusting fuel and you'll get a false reading). If it's not doing that, or if there is no activity at all, it's the sensor; if not, it's a signal problem.
At the risk of belaboring the point, you will save yourself a lot of guesswork with the right scan tool.
Cleaned 02 sensor terminal from harbess side and sprayed brake clean looking for vacuum leaks. No leaks found. Ill clear codes and test drive later for 02 code
Any good news?
In reply to Justjim75 :
Work, then we thrashed on the plumbing truck all night. So nope.
However the sub you tossed in hits HARD in the cab of a box truck.....
Tomorrow morning im going to drive it to the local office for a meeting. See what the datastreams say.
Berkley, e36 me! I never even hooked it up. Hope that takes some of the sting out of the CEL. Conversely, I am driving the heck out of this Miata, sanded and repainted the trunk, AFTER mounting the spoiler thing and even did a little bondo on the back bumper issue. Temp coat of paint on that as well since it will most likely need more filler, I mean, I did do all this outside after dark.
Nice! Glad to hear that pinata has a good home.
In other news, dad and i are going junkyarding Saturday morning. Tine to find some cosmetic parts. And start a build thread.
Congrats on the car man I am a little jelly about it being a wagon. I actually really liked the E39 I fixed up and if my lifelong goal wasn't to flip myself all the way to a Ferrari, then I would still be driving that car today.
I used the bimmerforums.com for a lot of info, and it's a good source for used parts also outside of eBay.
For OEM parts I couldn't find cheaper parts than at ECS.
Good luck with the scanner, I ended up getting a USB OBD2 cable and found a copy of the BMW INPA/NCS Expert software and loaded it up on an older laptop I had. It worked great at resetting weird stuff like coding the VIN of the ABS pump I replaced, and calibrating the steering sensor for the speed sensitive steering.
Well crap. All codes back. However, apparently in North Carolina if you buy a car from a state that does not require inspections you don't have to have it inspected to register it. That means I now have a legal plate on this thing. That's the good news! All the codes relate to the rear 3 cylinders so there's got to be a common denominator there that I have to find. I've ordered some scanner some softwares at a factory service manual to help me out
Something to think about, may be unrelated. I had both of my toyotas and my Ford pickup throwing multiple codes for catalytic converter and o2 sensors and did the lacquer thinner in the gas trick. In two of them it cleared all the codes and the other it left only one for a knock sensor. Apparently when the cc gets just below 95% efficiency it can cause all of those codes even though it still runs fine. I almost didn't post because you don't have po401 code but it may be another avenue to look at
That hose has nothing to due with Vac, there is a electric fan/pump, that blows fresh air into the exhaust, the round silver thing is a check valve.
O2 sensor errors could be air leak, or air flow sensor, also check fuel pressure. The fuel filter at least on mine is also the pressure regulator, making it a rather expensive filter.
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