What I still don’t know.

frenchyd said:

In reply to JBinMD :

Hey I've solved my problem.  One of the extra's I got with the car is a complete 6.0 intake  set.  With digital output for the MAF.    Everything earlier is analog.  

Ah, good news then, at least as far as datalogging goes.  

yupididit said:

In reply to frenchyd :

V12 cams come out that fast huh?  I thought removing the valve cover on these was a PITA.

You can't include taking the valve covers off on the V12 but you better include taking the timing cover off the SBC.

Paul_VR6 (Forum Supporter) said:

I think the crossover on the fancy LS manifolds is about 3/4" id

I solved my problem. Actually it's been solved since I bought it. It came with a 6.0 intake system. Complete right to the air cleaner. The 6.0 is digital.  I'll wire one side in.    
 Seriously Paul you've been a tremendous help. Thank you very much for your guidance and patience explaining things I'm sure you've explained countless times. 
 

Is this the build thread yet? Or just more bench racing?

yupididit said:

In reply to frenchyd :

V12 cams come out that fast huh?  I thought removing the valve cover on these was a PITA.

First you take off intake manifolds. But those are dry so unlike a Chevy you won't have antifreeze all over. It might take me 10 minutes but that's 'cause I'm fat and old. Now it's simple just the screws holding the covers down.  5 minutes.  
   Now the secret to doing it fast. See the cam sprocket? Notice the bolt in front? That's a 3/8th fine thread  put a washer and nut on and snug it forwards. Remove the cam sprockets bolts ( 9/16'ths)  zip the cam bearing nuts off. 7/16ths  lift the caps off set them in order. The cam is out.  Repeat on other side.   
 If the replacement cams have the same base circle  put them in place. Tighten up the cam sprocket bolts.  Remove the  nut and washer you put on.  Cam cover, intake manifold.  
       It might take me a couple hours because I'm old and need to rest a lot.  A real mechanic will be done in less than an hour. 
    

Ouch

maschinenbau (I live here) said:

Is this the build thread yet? Or just more bench racing?

When does a build start?  If you notice I got the turbo's I ordered.  Next I'll get a few more parts etc. once things are here and the weather no longer threatens snow pictures will stop and stuff will get progress 

dean1484 said:

How are you handling ignition?  I think you should forgo TPS and use a MAP sensor versus RPM to tune it. You are going to need to know the MAP anyway to tune with boost. I would put a separate MAP on each Mansfold to see what both sides of the motor are doing. I would have to think about if I would average the two for the MS and Wright somthing that then monitored the two for variance so in case you had a problem with one side and the MS was reading low boost on half the motor when there was full boost on the other half but was not getting enough fuel or not enough timing pulled causing bad things to happen. You could just take vac/boost from both sides to a T connection to the MAP. Put a big enough crossover and you then don't have to worry about this. Thinking more about this I would definitely do this. It would make tuning much easier. 

Since my goal is not to run the fastest 1/4 mile but rather run wheel to wheel road racing until I'm too old to drive. I'm perfectly happy giving away a little timing and a little boost for less expensive noises. 
   Accordingly I want to use the stock ignition distributor. I'll limit the boost to maybe 10-12 psi  ( except for the few seconds required to run the drag race ). 
I'll also run on E85 because it sells for $1.59/9 locally and it cools without the need or complexity of an intercooler.    ( have I mentioned how cheap I am)? 
     Seriously if I can't safely run with that much boost I'll limit it further. Remember I'm starting out with 7.8-1 compression.  In a nice perfect Hemi combustion chamber. 
    

In reply to frenchyd :

Don't know how old you are exactly but let's just say you were racing I think before I was born.  I'm 48 now.  I'm starting to look at projects as can I or can I not finish this before I die.  You need to get started or you won't finish.

In reply to Stampie (FS) :

1948. I was born. I was racing in 1962. ( hobby stock, a 1948 straight 8 Buick). 
Paul Newman raced until he was 84. I was racing in the Bahama's with a guy 88 who drove his MGTC special down from New England. Raced all week and drove it home. In the winter!  
    I should have a few years. 
 

 I want to make you an offer. If I admit that the LS6 454 of which GM  made 44xx out of the hundreds of thousands,(  millions )?  Made.  Made more gross or Advertised horsepower than most Jaguars made DIN net will we be friends?  I'll even be big enough to ignore the Lister and TWR engines Jaguar put in some XJS's 

Well we were friends before but I'm glad you finally see the light of the BBC.  BTW ... I'm harder on my friends than people I don't like.  If I don't like you I'll just ignore you mostly. As a friend I suggest you start building more and talking less. 

frenchyd said:

yupididit said:

In reply to frenchyd :

V12 cams come out that fast huh?  I thought removing the valve cover on these was a PITA.

First you take off intake manifolds. But those are dry so unlike a Chevy you won't have antifreeze all over. It might take me 10 minutes but that's 'cause I'm fat and old. Now it's simple just the screws holding the covers down.  5 minutes.  
   Now the secret to doing it fast. See the cam sprocket? Notice the bolt in front? That's a 3/8th fine thread  put a washer and nut on and snug it forwards. Remove the cam sprockets bolts ( 9/16'ths)  zip the cam bearing nuts off. 7/16ths  lift the caps off set them in order. The cam is out.  Repeat on other side.   
 If the replacement cams have the same base circle  put them in place. Tighten up the cam sprocket bolts.  Remove the  nut and washer you put on.  Cam cover, intake manifold.  
       It might take me a couple hours because I'm old and need to rest a lot.  A real mechanic will be done in less than an hour. 
    

Oops. On Re-reading I neglected a couple of things.
1st  turn the engine to top dead center #1 

 second. If the base circle of the cam was reduced during grinding ( normal regrinding practice)   Set the cam on the back side of each valve and measure with a feeler gauge. You're looking for .012 on the intake and .014 on the exhaust.   Add ( or subtract from shim thickness  to get to those numbers).  There, you've added another 1/2 hour but also adjusted the valves. 

In reply to yupididit :

Really? 2 hours of work and nothing is removed. Obviously paid by the hour and not flat rate.  
    To be fair though. Race cars are tons simpler. We don't air condition the fuel line.  Or have to deal with the EGR.  Etc. 

Stampie (FS) said:

Well we were friends before but I'm glad you finally see the light of the BBC.  BTW ... I'm harder on my friends than people I don't like.  If I don't like you I'll just ignore you mostly. As a friend I suggest you start building more and talking less. 

I've built enough race cars and done enough restorations so I don't start taking things apart until I have everything I'll need. 
    Yes there will be delays for the unexpected but why start out with a delay hanging over your head? 
    Besides as you know I have financial restraints. Money in the bank before parts are ordered. 

frenchyd said:

In reply to yupididit :

Really? 2 hours of work and nothing is removed. Obviously paid by the hour and not flat rate.  
    To be fair though. Race cars are tons simpler. We don't air condition the fuel line.  Or have to deal with the EGR.  Etc. 

He's doing the work himself. 

In reply to yupididit :

  Reading the book and trying to figure out what it's talking about?   That's understandable. Looking at it that engine is terrifying.   
    But at least it's not covered in plastic.  That stuff terrifies me. I'm always afraid I'm going to tug the wrong way and break things. 
  All that's happening is the scary bits are covered up and you're so glad you got the plastic cover off everything is simple from there on.  

frenchyd said:

In reply to Stampie (FS) :

1948. I was born. I was racing in 1962. ( hobby stock, a 1948 straight 8 Buick). 
Paul Newman raced until he was 84. I was racing in the Bahama's with a guy 88 who drove his MGTC special down from New England. Raced all week and drove it home. In the winter!  
    I should have a few years. 

I think I am more impressed that he drove from the U.S. to the Bahamas (especially in an MGTC!) than I am that he was still racing at 88.  

Also hopefully you already have some big injectors for a turbo on e85. Might possibly need some ID1000's. 

In reply to frenchyd :

Not perfect, the spark plug is in the wrong place & there are 2 valves missing. My old B18C1 flows a bit better. 

JBinMD said:

frenchyd said:

In reply to Stampie (FS) :

1948. I was born. I was racing in 1962. ( hobby stock, a 1948 straight 8 Buick). 
Paul Newman raced until he was 84. I was racing in the Bahama's with a guy 88 who drove his MGTC special down from New England. Raced all week and drove it home. In the winter!  
    I should have a few years. 

I think I am more impressed that he drove from the U.S. to the Bahamas (especially in an MGTC!) than I am that he was still racing at 88.  

Yep.  I caught that one as well...SSDD.

JBinMD said:

frenchyd said:

In reply to Stampie (FS) :

1948. I was born. I was racing in 1962. ( hobby stock, a 1948 straight 8 Buick). 
Paul Newman raced until he was 84. I was racing in the Bahama's with a guy 88 who drove his MGTC special down from New England. Raced all week and drove it home. In the winter!  
    I should have a few years. 

I think I am more impressed that he drove from the U.S. to the Bahamas (especially in an MGTC!) than I am that he was still racing at 88.  

In the winter!   The special had a lite weight aluminum body with zero attempt at weather protection. Minimal windscreen, no top, wipers, etc. 

   But those old MG's are remarkably reliable if you understand cars at all and are prepared to do a little work.   I drove mine from San Diego to Minnesota loaded with all my things from 7 years in the Navy. In August heat without a single issue.  That's 2000 miles in 3 days. I went on to drive that car as my daily driver for the next 1&1/2 years. 

mdshaw said:

In reply to frenchyd :

Not perfect, the spark plug is in the wrong place & there are 2 valves missing. My old B18C1 flows a bit better. 

Oh I understand 4 valve engines benefits. In fact the Jaguar 4.0 with 4 valves originated from Jaguars attempt to put 4 valves on the V12.  The reality was  those heads added serious weight to an already heavy engine and on the race track didn't provide material benefits. 

mdshaw said:

Also hopefully you already have some big injectors for a turbo on e85. Might possibly need some ID1000's. 

There was a guy on here with a quad turbo Corvette kart. Who nipped his stock injectors and got them to flow massive more fuel. I'm looking for that posting right now. 
    I love non expensive ways to achieve the same thing. That's the prime reason I subscribe.  The whole GRM mindset. 

Yes there are ways around a lot of things. There might also be some cheap unloved stock ones out of something else & also fuel pressure to the moon.