I second the Zetec. Dirt cheap, powerful enough, about as simple as an EFI engine can get.
I second the Zetec. Dirt cheap, powerful enough, about as simple as an EFI engine can get.
Suzuki J20 is, per the Internet, something like 170lb. About 160hp.
I would think the more modern the car, the lighter the engine. Any u-pull junkyards around with flat pricing on engines? Something like a 2007+ Sentra 2.0. The problem would be getting an ecu to run it for cheap since the stock one will have security systems and want BCMs and such
Go for cheap over light, 'cause you will be replacing it often. Car engines mostly make poor boat engines unless you spend a bunch of money on them. Does it need to be 4 cylinders? If not I'd be looking for a Mazda rotary engine. Whatever engine you pick, what are your plans for an exhaust manifold? Most are water cooled in a boat.
I feel like it's important that we state how much of the engine got weighed along with the number, e.g. I highly doubt any 2 liter passenger car engine weighs less than 200 lbs as a complete longblock with manifolds and an alternator. Even an old magnesium block air cooled VW bug motor is about 250lbs ready to go into the car.
Yup, engine weights are highly variable depending on who's doing the weighing.
I don't have the numbers handy, but the new Miata 2.0 is considerably lighter than the old ones. I want to say it was 280 lbs with all accessories, flywheel and even a full sump of oil. Doesn't fit any of the other parameters, but it's impressive. Modern engines get like this by being fully optimized - you can't port the head or even bore the block, there's just no meat.
BrokenYugo wrote: Honda B series? Google says it's only 350lbs complete and with trans, so like 290 without. edit: B not D, not enough power in the D series. Also, add weight for VTEC, but the cheap ones won't have VTEC.
Sigh... the d series is where it's at! The b series has a reputation by having a high redline and higher HP than the D series, but let's get it straight here: b16a=160hp, 102tq... d16a6 (or ZC) 130hp, 102tq. Add any mods you want to either engine equally, and the D series ALWAYS matches the B in torque. Always. Ask bisimoto if you don't believe me. A turbo D16 will blow the doors off any NA b16. Proven time and again. Also, a no vtec b series means, at most, 140hp. And that's if you use the b18b.
For cheap, really light, high-output four-cylinders, no car engine come even close to touching a sportbike.
mid-90's CBR900, $550 complete:
http://myrtlebeach.craigslist.org/mpo/5759125928.html
2004 CBR1000 part-out:
https://charleston.craigslist.org/mpo/5809797140.html
If air/oil-cooled could work for your application, here's the doozy...Suzuki Bandit 1200, missing title, wrecked...$300!!!! Buy the bike, part out what you don't want, keep the engine for free!
http://myrtlebeach.craigslist.org/mcy/5756765734.html
When shopping for these types of things, remember that clean and presentable, compression-tested, used motorcycle engines are going to be fairly expensive. Wrecked bikes and part-outs can be quite a bit cheaper. They are more of a crap shoot, but you said you wanted cheap, so take a little time and do some poking around. Hayabusas tend to be expensive, but you might be able to get a big Kawasaki ZX for less, and while some of the sport-touring powerplants (Honda VFR/ST, Yamaha FJ, etc) are down a little on power compared to sportbikes, but still really light, and torquey!
It also might not hurt to leave your number with a couple local bike breakers/junkyards and let them know that you are looking for a 1000cc+ four-cylinder engine. If you don't care about exact brand, model, and year, it might help them make a sale and help you find your powerplant.
Didn't the Zetec have an iron block? I'd be more inclined to go with the all aluminum Duratec 4 bangers. Supposedly just over 200lbs for a long block
Trackmouse wrote:BrokenYugo wrote: Honda B series? Google says it's only 350lbs complete and with trans, so like 290 without. edit: B not D, not enough power in the D series. Also, add weight for VTEC, but the cheap ones won't have VTEC.Sigh... the d series is where it's at! The b series has a reputation by having a high redline and higher HP than the D series, but let's get it straight here: b16a=160hp, 102tq... d16a6 (or ZC) 130hp, 102tq. Add any mods you want to either engine equally, and the D series ALWAYS matches the B in torque. Always. Ask bisimoto if you don't believe me. A turbo D16 will blow the doors off any NA b16. Proven time and again. Also, a no vtec b series means, at most, 140hp. And that's if you use the b18b.
But, the D and B-series spin backwards of most other engines, which tosses in a wrinkle in using them.
2zzge is pretty light and 190hp
Find a POS Alfa Spider, and take the 2.0l. They are very light engines, and Alfas have powered boats in the past.
Open deck aluminum block, aluminum heads- the only iron is in the liners, rods and crank.
4000rpm all day long, easy.
Toyman01 wrote: Doesn't some of the Honda stuff turn backwards? I like the idea of a 8500 rpm redline.
Don't you get into cavitation at that speed? Is it different with a jet vs. a prop?
Toyman01 wrote: I like the idea of a 8500 rpm redline.
So does cavatation. If the jet is in it's sweet spot at 5k rpm I doubt that it will still be happy all the way up at 8+.
The jet drive unit is just a fancy pump, you should pick your power supply based on the characteristics of the pump. There wouldn't be much benefit in increasing the power dramatically above what the jet is designed for, or running it at much higher RPM.
If you don't mind two strokes, a repurposed snowmobile engine may be what you're looking for.
STM317 wrote: Didn't the Zetec have an iron block? I'd be more inclined to go with the all aluminum Duratec 4 bangers. Supposedly just over 200lbs for a long block
Yup Iron block. I weighed mine with the intake and exhaust manifolds and mostly full of fluids and it came out to 260 lbs. It had a water pump, oil pans, some random bracketry, injectors & rail, throttle body, and the ignition system up to the coil pack.
Toyman, there is a $1000 Focus SVT. 170 hp zetec!
In reply to Appleseed:
Yes, cavitation is a problem over a certain RPM, but it's a jet boat. The pumps do suck air on occasion. Having a couple of thousand RPMs of cushion at cruise, would be nice.
Just cast rationality aside and go with a rotary, because reasons.
Howse about a Honda Goldwing engine?
spitfirebill wrote: Howse about a Honda Goldwing engine?
I like that idea. A flat 4 or 6 would be perfect for packaging low in the hull. I bet they are expensive though.
Edit. There is one on CL close to me for $600. Hmmm.
In reply to Toyman01:
https://charlotte.craigslist.org/mpo/5764675558.html
The GW engine is only 80 hp, I wonder how it would stand a turbocharger.
A DOHC Saturn S-Series (LL0) weighs 213lbs dressed. That's an easy 124hp. Its also available by the billions in junkyards for $cheap. Seriously, walk into any you pull it yard and there will be 50 of them. $100 later you have your answer. 3rd gen motors may weight a tad less due to the plastic intake manifold, most of which is likely offset by the 4 (vs 2) counterweight crank.
It'll respond well to breathing mods, but anything over ~170 crank hp and you'll want boost.
something people keep mentioning I would NEVER recommend on a boat. EFI. A good dousing of water (especially if salt) and you are either looking for a tow or paddling for shore. If you have to go with injection, you want mechanical (like an old alfa or BMW) but Electronic
BEE SIXTEEN VTEC YO.
Seriously the D-series is stupid light.
In reply to mad_machine:
I don't know, I think that if you put your ECU and such in a water tight container it should be fine. Engines are mostly water tight. I do have concerns about salt but those are the same no matter what the fueling is. All of these engines have electronic ignition so the EFI issues are duplicated on that.
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