GameboyRMH wrote:
The BMW S1000RR uses ALL torx head bolts. Torx doesn't seem to be more troublesome than JIS (technically not Philips), but the rarity of the tools adds a bit of a PITA factor.
Hah, I kept myself from going off on JIS machine screws earlier, but since you brought them up.......
Those berkeleying things make me feel like the Japanese got what they deserved at Hiroshima and Nagasaki. "Oh, lets make a fastener that looks exactly like another type of extremely common fastener, but isn't, but everyone will have to use the tool intended for the other fastener anyways since no one has a berkeleying JIS screwdriver." Bonus points for applications where they're placed under high torque and located where the heads can collect water and rust out.
berkeley those things. Who thought it was a good idea anyways creating a fastener that requires a large, constant axial load while applying torque at the same time to keep from stripping?
Ok done ranting, for now at least.
JIS spec bits seem to work a lot better in Phillips heads than the other way around. Though both are junk compared to torx or robertson (square).
Furious_E wrote:
RealMiniParker wrote:
In reply to Furious_E:
It likely wasn't rust that defeated you, with the seat belt bolts. Probably was thread lock. I had similar trouble with my S10, and when I applied some heat, they came right out.
Hmm, I hadn't really thought about that, just assumed rust was the issue judging by the amount of it present elsewhere, but you're probably right. I was reluctant to break the torch out anyways for fear of damaging the belts themselves.
It didn't take much, just a bit around the threads, from underneath - S10 has them bolted to the floor - to soften up the thread lock. Didn't need to get it red-hot, as you would for a rusted/seized fastener.
Furious_E wrote:
Those berkeleying things make me feel like the Japanese got what they deserved at Hiroshima and Nagasaki. "Oh, lets make a fastener that looks exactly like another type of extremely common fastener, but isn't, but everyone will have to use the tool intended for the other fastener anyways since no one has a berkeleying JIS screwdriver." Bonus points for applications where they're placed under high torque and located where the heads can collect water and rust out.
To compensate, they are usually made out of a grade of steel slightly better than gray cast iron, and will break if you accidentally get good purchase with the screwdriver.
Hey guys,
I replaced the front rotors, pads, and wheels hub assemblies on my 04 Suburban, but I am still getting a very noticeable vibration under braking. What do you think it could be?
Mazdax605 wrote:
Hey guys,
I replaced the front rotors, pads, and wheels hub assemblies on my 04 Suburban, but I am still getting a very noticeable vibration under braking. What do you think it could be?
Relevant to my interests, my 2001 dmax does this but I don't get brake pedal pulsing, just steering wheel shimmy (sometimes bad enough to feel like it wants to pull the wheel out of your hands).
I don't feel it in the steering wheel, but the whole truck shakes pretty badly. Rear rotors, perhaps?
Probably something related to torx bolts, I'd guess 
Your quest for completing this brake job is interfering with our rant against fasteners!
Is it worse than before you started?
Maybe a rotor is not seated right - piece of stripped torx bolt behind it or something? Start with spinning the rotors or put a dial indicator on to see if there's noticable runout.
