What to look for on an FD rx7?

So I found a '93 rx7 for sale locally and my automotive ADD has taken over again so I am going to look at it when I get done with work tonight. It has new turbos and a new radiator and only 69k on it. Anything in specific I should look at on these?

New turbos should be better if it read "single turbo".

The rat's nest can be simplified. If it is original, expect to spend a lot of time making this right.

Do a warm compression test. Do not buy the car without doing this.

Why did it need a new radiator? Was it clogged, did the engine overheat? That would be a catastrophe.

No personal experience, but a rotard friend of mine told me a few times that the first several thousand dollars worth of mods that should be done to an FD are all for better heat management.

I'd definitely be on the watch for any signs of overheating, and mindful of any smoke out the tail-pipe. If you go Spy-Hunter when you get on the gas, the apex seals are toasty.

Open the hood and look for an LSx

I love rotaries but I dont think I would own a 3rd gen with one. That being said a friend of mine DD'd a stockish one through 4 years of college and never had an issue.

Most of the internet horror stories about rotaries are just that stories. All 3 of mine were a joy to own with never a problem.

The twin turbos work wonderfully and if they don't then you simply tie wrap the hoses on and that's then end of the problem.

Definitely don't buy one without a rotary compression test. It's done differently than a test on a boinger and you'll get 3 readings (3 faces to the rotor)

Ask why it's got a new radiator. Overheating is an issue on the seals.

The chassis is remarkable and if you hear a clunking in the front suspension use that to get the price down even further. It's not a big deal. The clunk is a slight amount of play in the front upper A arm and can be quickly and permanently fixed by removing a bolt and putting a fender washer on the leading edge and then reinserting the bolt.

Thanks for the input guys. As far as the radiator goes im combining ads from 2 different cars and this one doesnt have a new radiator.

As far as the compression test goes, do I need to go to Mazda for that or can any shop do that?

It needs to be a rotary mechanic.

Greg Voth wrote: Open the hood and look for an LSx

THIS!!

carguy123 wrote: It needs to be a rotary mechanic.

Word. Still seems that a lot of Mazda mechanics wouldn't know a rotary engine if an apex seals hit them in the backside.

I had a mildly tuned FD for a while that retained the twin turbo system and that one worked really well. Loved the car, but OTOH that was built to my spec by a local rotary specialist. Completely problem free, but that was because it was built right in the first place.

Mine did have an uprated cooling system, uprated ignition system and an Apex'i PowerFC properly mapped as it was running a little more boost than stock. Not much, but enough to get another 40-50bhp out of the engine.

If I were to build another one for out here I'd probably get a V-mount setup to improve cooling, but good ones are a little pricey and not so expensive ones are best stored in the trash can.

Unless you're chasing big numbers I don't think the single turbo setup is worth it; a lot of people seem to remove them because they either don't understand the twin turbo system or can't be bothered to make it work right.

Isn't there something about the placement of the fuel filter being above the gas tank and almost impossible to change on these cars? This can lead to running lean if I remember correctly. I could be mixing it up with another car though.

ReverendDexter wrote: No personal experience, but a rotard friend of mine told me a few times that the first several thousand dollars worth of mods that should be done to an FD are all for better heat management. I'd definitely be on the watch for any signs of overheating, and mindful of any smoke out the tail-pipe. If you go Spy-Hunter when you get on the gas, the apex seals are toasty.

It wouldnt be the apex seals. It would be the oil control rings if it went "spy-hunter".

Some smoke out of the tailpipe (especially on startup) is not necessarily a bad thing. (they do burn oil). Excessive smoke, or smoke that keeps coming out after a little while IS bad.

I want one bad!!!

CGLockRacer wrote: Isn't there something about the placement of the fuel filter being above the gas tank and almost impossible to change on these cars? This can lead to running lean if I remember correctly. I could be mixing it up with another car though.

It's more of a pain to change the fuel filter than on most cars, but it can still be done in about 20-30 minutes even if you haven't done it before. You just need the car on stands, some longish reach hose pliers, WD-40, and you have to remove a plastic aero/dust shield from the rear suspension area. Not "almost impossible" at all, but not super fun either.

Start the car when totally cold, with the filler cap (the one on the filler neck, not the air separation tank) off. Make sure there isn't a stream of bubbles floating up. If there is it means the coolant seals are compromised and combustion pressure is leaking into the coolant system. The coolant seals can sometimes fail, even on low-mileage examples, if the cars sit for a long time.

The heim-style bushings in the rear suspension tend to wear out maybe every 60k or so, so if there is a clunk from the back, that's it. I think it costs about $250 to buy all new bushings from Mazda, but they then have to be pressed in.

Hope it checks out. Still one of the prettiest cars ever made.

You can do an eyeball compression test on a rotary with a regular compression tester, you just have to either remove the schrader valve or hold it open.

You'll be looking for three even bounces on each rotor if you do it that way.

Also, if the engine is toast and you buy it anyhow and are going to rebuild the engine, the killer bee paint job (see my avatar) is the only way to do it.

In reply to JamesMcD:

OK. memory failed me then :)

Great advice above, I've had my FD for about ten years now, its still a blast to drive, although the coolant seals are gone so I'll be needing to rebuild it soon. RX7club.com has a TON of information/links to all things FD.

If I were to buy one now, I would look nationally and find one that already had the mods I was looking for, ie if you want a fresh engine with a single turbo, V-mount intercooler/radiator and all the supporting mods; I would save my money and spend a little more for one up front. Lots of guys spend big bucks on project cars then sell for a big loss.

Of course like other cars, buying a lower mileage one with a clean history, full records and no rust is strongly recommended. Best of luck and good hunting.

FD's are on my top 5 must own list, Good luck with your purchase.

dyintorace wrote: Hope it checks out. Still one of the prettiest cars ever made.

I just felt my heart slow down when I saw that. It's the same thing that happens when men see breasts.

FAQ here: http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=68640

Scroll down to the B section for Buyer's Guide. Read those links twice.

Get a compression test.

My FD has been more reliable than the low mileage 95 325is that I bought with 17k miles.

Awesome car to drive.

I've had my FD for over 10 years and never had any problems. I'm still running the original motor and turbos. I've autocrossed for 8 years and tracked it about dozen times. It's been one of my most reliable vehicles I've owned. Granted I do give it a little more tlc then some of my other rides and keep up religiously with maintenance.

Oct '09 issue had an RX-7 buyer's guide article.

Also, this is a good place to start:

http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=68640

Nookie.

So I went to go take a look at it tonight. I'm a little torn about it right now. He only want 11k for it which from my limited searching seems to be a low price. It does have a new radiator, newish turbos. Drove awesome, needs new shocks.

The deal breaker is the fact that it is a private sale at dealer. Its one of the salespersons cars and his shop did the "inspection" on it and everything is in "good order." I asked if it would be possible to see service records for it since he said he had it serviced by a Mazda dealer for the past 10 years and he said that they never gave him records so he couldn't show me. He also wouldn't let me take it to a 3rd party shop to have a compression test done.

It was fun and from that short drive an FD is on my short list of cars to own before i die, but I think I am going to have to pass this one up. Too many red flags for my liking.

Agreed. Buyer is not being open enough. Especially if he won't let you get a compression test coolant seals by doing a coolant system pressure test.

Buy a good one and you'll have a good time. Buy a bad one and you'll hate the experience.