What to look for when purchasing a used diesel truck?

I have test drove a few now and I feel like there is more I should be checking than the normal pickup.

Aside from the issues for brand specific trucks, what should I be checking for on a used 1-ton?

I'm looking at '01 and newer, my budget is $15k.

Check to see if the price premium is worth it over a conventional gasoline fueled truck.

Seriously, though, most of the mechanical components are the same, and I am guessing you already know how to check those. Check for service records compared to factory maintenance schedule, check to make sure the urea-thing is full, check the EGR system (if you can). See if it has been tuned, and if so, was it done well or for rolling coal? If you plan on keeping it and running it for a good long time, try taking it to a third party shop that does diesel work and see if the seller will split the cost with you.

Check the enthusiast forms for that make/model and see if they have a pre-purchase checklist and buyer's guide. That should highlight specific issues particular to that brand.

Try to find one owned by an older adult and not some "bro-dozer" that some flat-biller kid has beat the crap out of trying to roll coal for all his buddies.

Key things to watch out for...

• exhaust stack(s)
• Monster Energy and/or Metal Mulisha stickers
• 20"x14" wheels
• lifted front suspension & lowered rear aka "Carolina Squat"
• LED lightbar(s)
• giant tow hook hanging from hitch
• train horns

In reply to Brett_Murphy:

Diesel is necessary. The trucks I'm looking at are old enough that they won't have Urea.

I'm trying to stay far away from modded trucks.

Suspension and braking components are quite a bit more expensive on the heavier duty trucks, so prepare to budget for that. We service a lot of HD customers at my store, and that's primarily what I see on my end.

I did a ton of shopping in your price range before i decided that i could eat the extra couple hundred a month and get the new truck warranty.

During that I found that you should make sure the LB7 duramax has had it's injectors repaired. that the allison 6 speed came about in 2006, that the weak point of any dodge is not anything having to do with the cummins but the weak transmissions they installed to them until recently, and that all powerstrokes after the 7.3 should be avoided as if you will get the plague and herpes just by considering buying one. I had an old guy tell me he loved his 6.0 powerstroke and that it's been great, and he "only" had to spend 10 grand to rebuild the engine at 100k miles because the heads pulled up off the block but other than that it's been awesome.

This is relevant to my interests as well, thank you for the post.

The 6.0 powerstrokes aren't terrible, you just have to plan to do a few things pre-emptively so they don't blow up. But once those are taken care of, they hold up fine (and they're much less underpowered than the 7.3s).

I can only answer to the 7.3 Not sure why anyone would call it underpowered. Once it hits 250, plan on needing injectors cleaned and glow plugs replaced in the near future. Also, their prices are climbing, so if you want one, buy it now.

rslifkin wrote: The 6.0 powerstrokes aren't terrible, you just have to plan to do a few things pre-emptively so they don't blow up. But once those are taken care of, they hold up fine (and they're much less underpowered than the 7.3s).

I agree. The later models are better. The 2006-2007 in the F series are way more reliable then the 2003-2004. The head bolts and head gaskets are still the same but they only become an issue on modded engines. EGR coolers were upgraded but I would install an EGR delete on any one I owned just because.

A good example is the 6.0L in the E series of vans. These engines were turboed but do now have an inner cooler due to space limitations. Ford detuned the engines a bit for that reason. The 6.0L in these engines if left alone will run 200-300K without major issues. Which is a good thing as doing major work on one almost requires lifting the cab/body off the chassis.

I'm trying to stay away from the 6.0L Fords. In my price range, things are sketchy. I'm going through dealers because I'll be financing, but all the trucks I'm finding are beat. I just looked a F350 that looked stock in the dealer photos, but was on its way to being brodozed before it was traded in. The dealer offered to fix a bunch of issues for another $3k and I passed because they didn't know what had been done to the truck by the PO.

I budgeted in tires, brakes and servicing, but not a full top end rebuild with a bunch of add ons. I want to buy a truck that's ready to go with minor issues.

I just found a '05 Silverado 3500, but the dealer is telling me that the Airbag light is on, as is the Service 4WD light. It's a big car dealer, I'm not sure why they didn't fix those two particular issues if they are trying to sell it.

I'm getting frustrated because I have a limited budget and things are not looking positive. Maybe after a year at the new job I will be able to trade it in for a much newer truck that I can afford a higher payment on.

I recently picked up an '04.5 Silverado Duramax. Crew Cab, LS trim. 201,000 km on it. So low-ish. One local owner. Truck has some minor battle scars as it was a work truck but not too bad. Interior is good. Truck is totally bone stock.

I don't NEED a diesel, but after hauling/towing with it, holy crap they are just the right tool for the job.

Other than a pinion seal leak and a t-case seal leak that I knew about when I bought it it's been good. No surprises. I've had it about a month and put a few thousand KM on it. I paid $11,200.

Be patient, there are good trucks out there.

In my opinion the GM's are the nicest all around trucks, but around here they sell for a premium usually.

I think the Ford's are the best "trucks" and apparently the 6.0 can be made reliable, and they do sound great.

The Dodge? Well the 5.9 Cummins is awesome. The rest of the trucks not so much, although there are a bunch of high mile ones for sale it seems, so they can go the distance.

I think the GM's have the fewest issues to deal with. The early LB7's have injector issues, but I know a bunch of them personally and I think it's a bit overhyped on the net. The LLY and later seem to survive pretty well with just regular maintenance like oil changes, fuel filters etc. If run at or near stock power levels, the Allison automatic is a great transmission. When towing, mine is almost magical. It's really good at being in the right gear at the right time.

2 months ago I bought a 100% unmodified bulletproofed 06 f250 from the original owners. It was well maintained with receipts for everything since brand new.

I looked on forums to see if the usual suspects were taken care of, test drove it, checked it for codes, had a ppi done. Everything came out great. I've had the truck for 2 months and no problems so far. I've replaced the shocks with Bilsteins ($75 a piece). That's it. Love the truck and so does my wife. I have a hard time not dd'ing it.

Next I'll be replacing the all-terrain tires with regular truck road tires and getting a monitor. No plans to tune, lift, or modify it.

Oh and this was under your budget.

In reply to yupididit:

That's a nice truck. I could probably find a better deal privately, but unfortunately I need to finance.

I did drive a nice '03 Ram 3500 with a 6-Speed manual today. Problem is, dealer wants too much for it and they are selling it "As Is" and the airbag and ABS light is on, of course.

Why can't you finance a private buy? If you have a credit union they'll give you a loan on a pov sale.

In reply to yupididit:

Hmm didn't know that. I'll look into that.

I have a 7.3 PSD but I wouldn't be afraid of a 6.0 if it had already been bullet-proofed. My understanding is that once that's done a 6.0 can be as reliable as anything out there.

I admit, I had to look up what "rolling coal" meant.

If anyone else wondered, here is the definition I found: Rolling coal

untchabl wrote: Try to find one owned by an older adult and not some "bro-dozer" that some flat-biller kid has beat the crap out of trying to roll coal for all his buddies. Key things to watch out for... - exhaust stack(s) - Monster Energy and/or Metal Mulisha stickers - 20"x14" wheels - lifted front suspension & lowered rear aka "Carolina Squat" - LED lightbar(s) - giant tow hook hanging from hitch - train horns

SEADave wrote: I have a 7.3 PSD but I wouldn't be afraid of a 6.0 if it had already been bullet-proofed. My understanding is that once that's done a 6.0 can be as reliable as anything out there.

Yes, except that dealers won't know if they have been unless it was done by a Ford Dealer.

Purchasing through a private party you would find that out a lot easier.

see how old the credit union will give you $ for before you go looking.

http://cleveland.craigslist.org/cto/5476763061.html

Good price but 2002 isn't the last of the 7.3s. 2003 is.

I own a 2006 F350. I can't add anything to the diesel discussion as mine has the V10 gas engine. I will warn you that suspension and brake parts are shockingly expensive for any one ton so be prepared. Other than that the Ford tows our gooseneck horse trailer really well and the car trailer doesn't even feel like it's there. When empty the ride is absolutely horrible but that's to be expected.

The duramaxes ride the best out of all of them, typically get the best mpg loaded or unloaded, and the whole package is durable.

Additionally, front end parts are dirt cheap, and companies like the duramaxstore sell lifetime warranty replacement parts that are stronger than stock.

You don't need a 6 speed allison, it does nothing besides make highway driving quieter (you won't be towing in 6th unless you are above 75mph, it's just too tall a gear). Also, 5 speed allisons are 6 speeds, they just have 6th disabled. $2k buys you the kit to make it 6 if you really care (which you shouldn't, as it doesn't matter).

Injectors on the LB7's aren't overblown. They will wear out, usually by about 160k miles. The biggest thing is that when they are replaced, the steel fuel lines that are attached to the injectors MUST BE REPLACED AS WELL. If you don't, they corrode over time, and when the new injectors are installed, the corrosion is picked up by the fuel and destroys the new injectors within 100k miles.

As for what to look for, I would only buy a used diesel that was bone stock. It is so easy to make "kill transmission power" with nothing more than a tune.

I drive a 7.3L for my DD with over 500K on it, so I'm pretty loyal.

Having said that, I've been working at a Ford dealership for the last year, and they are EXTREMELY proud of their parts. The General Manager recently bragged to me, "Yeah, every time you see a Super Duty in the shop it is at LEAST $1000".

I am considering a gas burner for my next truck, just to avoid the diesel premium (which goes on and on through the entire life of the vehicle). Modern gas burner trucks are very capable towing machines.

My 7.3L has spent less than 3 days per year in the shop the entire time I've owned it.

That wasn't an answer to your question...

Look for blow-by. It's the fastest indicator of a good diesel engine, and usually pretty obvious.