1st homebrew

I'm pretty excited, I had received the kit over the holidays, brewed it on NYE and bottled about 10 days ago. Fairly tasty and impressed that I didn't screw it up for a first timer

Congratulations! I dig the labels. I'm about to start my second homebrew, just waiting to finish a few more store boughts so I have enough empties.. My first attempt didn't turn out quite as planned, I'm guessing the yeast died early? resulting in a super malty 4.7% alc vs. the 7% IPA I was going for. So good job on not doing that!

Excellent work! Very nice. Those labels are definitely awesome. Does this mean you're planning to keep it up?

What sort of equipment and materials did you use?

mrjoshm wrote: Congratulations! I dig the labels. I'm about to start my second homebrew, just waiting to finish a few more store boughts so I have enough empties.. My first attempt didn't turn out quite as planned, I'm guessing the yeast died early? resulting in a super malty 4.7% alc vs. the 7% IPA I was going for. So good job on not doing that!

What do you mean by "malty"?

Do you mean "sweet"? If it is really really sweet then the yeast crapped out. Either a temperature issue, or more likely not aerating your wort enough for good yeast reproduction.

If mean "bisquity", "bready", or "roasty" but not sweet, then the problem occurred in your mashing process. You didn't extract the sugars out of your malt.

I went with the turkey fryer setup, bucket primary fermentation, glass carboy secondary in a 45 degree garage (yes, a lager yeast).

this was extract, but I think I will try biab next.

The label was made used http://labeley.com/beer and Gimp with the impact ttf font and reversed impact ttf font. Printed on a normal laserjet and applied using milk.

Grtechguy wrote: I went with the turkey fryer setup, bucket primary fermentation, glass carboy secondary in a 45 degree garage (yes, a lager yeast).

Very nice.

Did you do extract with flavor grains, partial mash, or all grain? Is the carboy 5gal or 6gal? I highly recommend using a single fermentation vessel. You don't actually need to take the beer off the yeast. Typically transferring it just increases the risk of contamination and oxidation, loses some beer, and only gains you a bit of clarity. I like to put 5 gallons of wort in a 6-gal carboy.

it had flavor grains...the carboy is a 6 gallon.

I'll try skipping the secondary next time.

Beer Baron wrote: You don't actually need to take the beer off the yeast.

What are your feelings on pitching another brew directly on the yeast cake? Bottle 1 brew and start another fermentation in the same bucket? Would I have add more yeast?

You should've named the beer "disgusting science"

Congrats by the way. I REALLY want to get into brewing...and I REALLY don't need another hobby!

You have inspired me to start brewing again. I used to brew in college for the fact that it got me laid. Now I want to do it because.... well, I want to get laid.

But seriously, I do really enjoy brewing. Its kinda like making biodiesel. Its a homemade product that you want to tweak and make perfect so you can consume it and enjoy it.

curtis73 wrote: You have inspired me to start brewing again. I used to brew in college for the fact that it got me laid. Now I want to do it because.... well, I want to get laid.

The only girls who will sleep with you because you have lots of free beer are 20 something, college.......

Strange... I thought there was a downside to your plan but I can't think of it now.

Grtechguy wrote: What are your feelings on pitching another brew directly on the yeast cake? Bottle 1 brew and start another fermentation in the same bucket? Would I have add more yeast?

Works just fine, typically. Not an uncommon practice.

Do NOT add more yeast. If anything, there will be too much yeast. You can actually lose some flavors that develop from the yeast multiplying. If you are able to "wash" a portion of your yeast out, that is a good way around the issue. (Rinse out some of the yeast with cool, sterilized water. Typically boil a couple mason jars. Cap while hot. Chill in fridge overnight. You can also wash yeast into the mason jars to reuse later.)

If you do pitch back on top. Do not go into a significantly lighter, less hoppy, or lower alcohol beer. Actually, do not pitch onto yeast that has been used to make extremely high alcohol beer (say... 9%+, and I'd be uncomfortable at 8%.)

What do you mean by "malty"? Do you mean "sweet"? If it is really really sweet then the yeast crapped out. Either a temperature issue, or more likely not aerating your wort enough for good yeast reproduction. If mean "bisquity", "bready", or "roasty" but not sweet, then the problem occurred in your mashing process. You didn't extract the sugars out of your malt.

Thank you for clarifying, I mean bready and bisquity. I followed the instructions for the mashing process but I was using a meat thermometer. Would the temp being off cause this?

Trans_Maro wrote:

curtis73 wrote: You have inspired me to start brewing again. I used to brew in college for the fact that it got me laid. Now I want to do it because.... well, I want to get laid.

The only girls who will sleep with you because you have lots of free beer are 20 something, college....... Strange... I thought there was a downside to your plan but I can't think of it now.

And so the Paduan becomes the Master.

I'm about to start my second batch.

Also, if anyone is interested, Midwest has their starter package on sale for $65 right now and you get $25 credit to next purchase.

I think I'm going to get the goods together and help my dad out. He needs something to do in his semi-retirement. This won't be his first rodeo.

Here is the deal I was talking about:

http://slickdeals.net/f/5828312-Homebrew-Kit-from-Midwest-Supplies-25-off-coupon-Recipe-kit-64-shipping

Question, why cant you ferment in the bottling bucket? Or do you want to be able to filter the brew for a more clear beer?

Enyar wrote: Question, why cant you ferment in the bottling bucket? Or do you want to be able to filter the brew for a more clear beer?

the trub(sp?) may cover the spigot as it settles and you don't want that sediment in your bottles.

mrjoshm wrote: Thank you for clarifying, I mean bready and bisquity. I followed the instructions for the mashing process but I was using a meat thermometer. Would the temp being off cause this?

Possibly. Are you sure it is precise and accurate? You need to be able to hold the mash at a temp that allows the enzymes to degrade the starch efficiently and hold it there till theyre done. Do not let it get so hot it deactivates those enzymes.

Be sure you are sparging out all the sugars too.

It is a good idea to take an accurate initial gravity reading.

Enyar wrote: Question, why cant you ferment in the bottling bucket? Or do you want to be able to filter the brew for a more clear beer?

Trub as mentioned. You do not want that in your final beer.

Also that plastic is more oxygen soluble and you may oxidize your beer.

Beer Baron wrote: Trub as mentioned. You do not want that in your final beer. Also that plastic is more oxygen soluble and you may oxidize your beer.

Duh. I wasn't present for the bottling process of my first homebrew but now that I think about it this makes sense.

Question about the second tidbit you mentioned. The plastic is more oxygen soluble? I used 5 gallon bucket for primary fermentation and then after a couple weeks switched to glass carboy but after reading on the forums, I was planning on just keeping it in plastic bucket for ease / no chance of smashing glass to smithereens.

hey GR, remember my old American Flyer train set we discussed a while back? i'll trade you a variety case of your home brew for all the train stuff. PM me.

Enyar wrote: Question about the second tidbit you mentioned. The plastic is more oxygen soluble? I used 5 gallon bucket for primary fermentation and then after a couple weeks switched to glass carboy but after reading on the forums, I was planning on just keeping it in plastic bucket for ease / no chance of smashing glass to smithereens.

Sorry. Oxygen permeable. It was a long day.

Using a food grade plastic bucket for primary fermentation really is okay. I just prefer not to. O2 during fermentation doesn't hurt anything. The yeast will absorb it. You just don't want any 02 when fermentation is done.

If you want lighter, the "Better Bottle" is a great carboy. It's a plastic-type substance that isn't O2 permeable and is a lot lighter and non-shattering than glass. Same shape/size as a glass carboy. Only big don't I learned is that it is a bad idea to do sour beer in them. They can get scratches where microbes can settle, and you can not boil them to sanitize.