I'm trying not to break the block or the pulley, but I need to get it off the motor it's currently stuck on to put on a new motor.
I've tried penetrating oil and a wrecking bar, but it won't budge. Set screws are definitely both out.
It appears all one piece so I'm not sure if a 3 jaw puller will work, but I'm probably buying one this weekend to find out.
Yeah, a three-jaw puller should be some help. I've had some memorble fights with round objects stuck on rusty shafts. I do not envy you your task.
One word of advice: Perseverance. Oh, and heat it up, then spray it down with penetrating oil. Rinse and repeat.
In reply to 1988RedT2 :
My concern, and reluctance so far, of adding heat is that this is a $200 piece if I need to replace it.
One of those times I wish I had a lathe.
Put something inside the pulley to protect the shaft. Get a quality three jaw puller and tighten it up pretty good on the pulley.
Give a good, solid strike on the puller bolt using a hammer with some heft. Don't tickle it with the hammer, but don't try to drive it across the room either. Just a good, solid smack.
"Pop"
The pulley is loose.
Of course now I look closer, the rear pulley is smaller than the front. That might be hard for a puller to reach.
You might have to put some flat steel behind the pulley for the puller to grab onto.
Alternate method if the pulley does not have to be pretty...
Find the biggest bolt you have that is still smaller than the hole for the pulley shaft and get a nut to fit the bolt.
Weld the nut to the pulley, let cool and run the bolt into the nut and that should walk the pulley off the shaft.
RevRico said:In reply to 1988RedT2 :
My concern, and reluctance so far, of adding heat is that this is a $200 piece if I need to replace it.
One of those times I wish I had a lathe.
What's the concern with heat? It's all steel, is it not? I'd be afraid of breaking it with excessive force before I'd worry about putting heat into it.
Heat it. Stop at dull cherry red.
Actually, if the pulley is cast iron, and there's a good chance that it is, it is fairly brittle and may break more easily than you think. I know I was surprised the time I broke a 6" Craftsman bench vise. It was cast iron.
I had one on an old Briggs L-head a few years ago. Soaked for a few days in some PB Blaster, cranked on the 3-jaw until I was afraid, and applied the fire until it let go. (With the puller still under tension) it was pretty loud when it first moved, but after the initial break it came off pretty smoothly.
That's an application for heat for sure.
In reply to Noddaz :
Those are two, thankfully separate, pulleys and I don't need the one in the back.
I can't tell if the main is cast or regular steel, guess i could try a magnet.
This is an old Tecumseh 5hp off my tiller. The second smaller pulley is connected to the crank shaft for reverse.
I'll pick up a 3 jaw tomorrow then when I get longer bolts to mount it to the frame.
Or, get a bearing splitter and use your steering wheel puller. The splitter will pull evenly on the back side of the pulley.
Many sizes available.
And heat is your friend, too.
3 jaw puller, heat, and patience. Pulling the shaft coupler on my boat took a couple of days. Heat, tighten the puller, cool, tighten the puller, repeat. I would tighter the puller every time I walked past it. I was sitting on the porch when it popped.
Edit to add, Gearwrench makes a really nice set of 2 and 3 jaw pullers. Not super cheap at a little over $100 but worth it in my book.
So this pulley doesn't have a hole in the middle, just a little thing on the key way. So my 3 jaw puller is just pulling the pulley against itself.
I need to find something to get behind it and push out
In reply to RevRico :
That's not the end of the shaft we are looking at in the second picture?
If not, how about a homemade attachment and a slide hammer?
Or this from the hammer store.
In reply to Toyman! :
No, that's the inside of the pulley as far as I can tell. No discernable gap anyway, just hard to get a good picture of.
I guess pulley is the wrong word, it's called a "sheave" on the parts list.
But slide hammer, that's the tool I was trying to think of. Borrowing one of those will be easier than making the thing I can see in my head. A bracket with two threaded holes to push off from the block.
I'm going to measure it out though, I don't see why a regular pulley for a v belt wouldn't work, as long as it holds the belt in the right place.
I bet that is the shaft - it doesn't make much sense for it to be anything other than that.
heat, constant and increasing pressure.
That has got to be the shaft. It would be almost impossible to broach the keyway if the pulley was dead ended. And we can definitely see the key.
It's just rusted that good 
Need heat, need a puller.
If you're feeling saucy and don't mind scary chemicals, if you could drip some hydrochloric acid at the joint, or preferably find a way to invert the motor into a cup of the stuff, it will eat the rust very quickly. Not sure how long it would take to get into the crevice, though.
Another option, if you can, is to clean as much of the rust as you humanly can from the exposed part of the shaft and the exposed inside diameter of the pulley. I mean, wire brush and finger sander get that down to bare metal. Apply all the penetrating oil. Then hammer the pulley on DEEPER. A lot of times "stuck" is just stuck, and moving it in either direction will free it up. Then you can go back to a puller or something to graunch it back off. May take a few back and forths.
In reply to RevRico :
That's the shaft for sure. Otherwise you'd not be able to see the key.
Looking at the first pic again, maybe it's an optical illusion, but that main pulley looks like it's cocked off. If so, it'll be hell to remove, maybe impossible to save. Hopefully it just looks crooked.
well berkeley
Broke the pulley, bent one of my 15"flat bars into a nice U shape, and cross threaded my puller.
Just ordered a $20 pulley that meets the measurements from Amazon. If it doesn't work, I'll buy another whole tiller before I buy a $200 pulley.
In reply to RevRico :
I would think a generic pulley would be fine. Most belts are one of three common sizes and same with that crankshaft.
I tell you though, I'd be pretty determined to get the pulley off at this point. It may be stubborn, but I'm more stubborn. That's just me though.
I'd have liked to have seen some heat used. Put it under tension with the pulley and swell it with heat and it would/will come off.
In reply to barefootcyborg5000 :
Oh it's coming off. Just not tonight. Regroup my attack, build or buy a new puller, and it's coming.
It was about 2/3 of the way off when it broke. I might have gotten a little over zealous with the twisting when I realized it was moving, but the puller I had is ~20 year old chinesium. 50 years of American rust won out, this time.
New taper lock pulley is the easy button answer here.
Darn! You broke it!
Braze the broken piece back in place and grind it smooth...
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