SV reX said:
The giant windows are also a tip.
I wouldn't be surprised if you have a pretty narrow lot, you may be attached on 1 side to your neighbor, and you may have a service road at the back of your lot for trash collection.
I never doubted your knowledge, but it does continue to impress. The big windows were also a selling point for us. The house has amazing natural light because of them. Between the windows and the trim, we were sold. Now when I get around to replacing 26 large windows.... that'll hurt.
In fact I would would have a very narrow lot except that mine is 3 lots side by side. (1 lot these days, but from the original paperwork it would have been 3 initially.) It is still deeper by far than wide, no service road out back though. :)
pinchvalve (Forum Supporter) said:
Oh, if you are doing a complete remodel, add a hot water line and outlet to the toilet area for a bidet down the road. Your SO will thank you.
Just planning an outlet for now. Plenty of easy access to add hot water later if needed. Unfortunately a hot water line would probably not be too useful there either as it takes a while of running water to for the hot water to come up from the basement hot water heater to the second floor. Always appreciate the tips!
No Time
UltraDork
1/9/24 12:43 p.m.
AWSX1686 (Forum Supporter) said:
pinchvalve (Forum Supporter) said:
Oh, if you are doing a complete remodel, add a hot water line and outlet to the toilet area for a bidet down the road. Your SO will thank you.
Just planning an outlet for now. Plenty of easy access to add hot water later if needed. Unfortunately a hot water line would probably not be too useful there either as it takes a while of running water to for the hot water to come up from the basement hot water heater to the second floor. Always appreciate the tips!
We have one of the basic add on bidets that gets water from the cold water feed to the toilet.
To be honest, the water in the line is warm enough from the surrounding air to not be an issue, and even if someone ran the water before you, the tap cold water is not really uncomfortable because it is being sprayed and not soaking in it.
The missus has not complained either.
Sorry I am late to the party, I have been in self imposed time out. Here is a preliminary sketch of your proposed bathroom remodel. Lot's of unknowns: Thickness of the walls you call out. 3.5" or 4" wide studs. 1/2" drywall or lath and plaster covered walls. Size of the walk door and window? You might want to consider swapping the vanity and tub locations. (edit: after that, maybe the shower and tub locations. Tub on top and shower on the bottom.)
SV reX
MegaDork
1/10/24 5:30 p.m.
In reply to VolvoHeretic :
I understood it to be a little different...
I thought the vanity was on the same wall as the door to the room, and that the shower was to open to the vanity side (not the toilet side). That would add a wall thickness toward the toilet (and explain why the OP said he only had 30" wide for the toilet)
I may have misunderstood.
I agree about considering relocating the tub.
SV reX
MegaDork
1/10/24 6:27 p.m.
I don't know if there is any room for design discussion any more, but have you ever considered moving the door?
It would make everything work better.
If the door was centered in the room, there would be space for a double vanity on the left side with the toilet in the far left corner.
I know moving a door is a pain, but it's a pretty small thing in the overall scheme of things.
j_tso
Dork
1/10/24 7:02 p.m.
AWSX1686 (Forum Supporter) said:
pinchvalve (Forum Supporter) said:
Oh, if you are doing a complete remodel, add a hot water line and outlet to the toilet area for a bidet down the road. Your SO will thank you.
Just planning an outlet for now. Plenty of easy access to add hot water later if needed. Unfortunately a hot water line would probably not be too useful there either as it takes a while of running water to for the hot water to come up from the basement hot water heater to the second floor. Always appreciate the tips!
An electric bidet seat heats the water on its own. That and the air dry function makes it feel like you're really pooping in the 21st century.
In reply to VolvoHeretic :
I'm going to be honest, I had not thought of moving the door. What software or website are you using?
I'd like to mock up the current design, none of the ones you posted are quite right, though I do appreciate all the thoughts!
I use AutoCAD Architectural Desktop 2004 although I am somewhat fluent up to 2019. What needs to change in the first photo?
Here is what they look like in 3D:
SV reX
MegaDork
1/10/24 8:18 p.m.
In reply to AWSX1686 (Forum Supporter) :
I still use graph paper and a pencil!
SV reX
MegaDork
1/10/24 8:20 p.m.
In reply to VolvoHeretic :
I was hoping you'd draw the idea of moving the door
In reply to SV reX :
That was the best idea of all. Next is to locate all of the floor joists and see how many will interfere with the three drains. I wonder what is in the room under the bathroom?
In reply to VolvoHeretic :
The window is 36" wide, but only a foot off of the left wall.
Then the vanity would be on the same wall as the door. The shower would be closed off between the toilet and the shower door opening into that space between it and the vanity.
VolvoHeretic said:
In reply to SV reX :
That was the best idea of all. Next is to locate all of the floor joists and see how many will interfere with the three drains. I wonder what is in the room under the bathroom?
Underneath this bathroom is a half bath up against the outside wall. Obviously much smaller, but it will get refreshed eventually so the ceiling is already removed from the half bath to accommodate access needs.
SV reX
MegaDork
1/10/24 8:40 p.m.
In reply to AWSX1686 (Forum Supporter) :
The challenge is the piping.
Im pretty sure your floor joists run from the door to the window. That means you'd have to bore holes through ALL the floor joists for the 3" drain line. That's too much.
Unless it's possible to lower the ceiling in the half bath below. That would make it much easier.
In reply to SV reX :
You are correct on the direction they run. Some are already torn up from when the current plumbing was hacked though them who knows how long ago. I'll be sistering boards to make up for the holes they cut.
And yes, I am planning a dropped ceiling in the half bath so I can accommodate as needed. The drains are the only part I'm not the most confident at. Everything else just takes time and elbow grease.
This closer? How wide is the door? Everything measured to the finished wall? Is it lath and plaster? The floor drains need to run next to the floor joists up to the outside wall and into a soffit over to the first floor's right wall which looks like it should be the plumbing wall. When was the house built?
AWSX1686 (Forum Supporter) said:
In reply to VolvoHeretic :
The window is 36" wide, but only a foot off of the left wall.
Then the vanity would be on the same wall as the door. The shower would be closed off between the toilet and the shower door opening into that space between it and the vanity.
Is this a custom shower enclosure? I've never seen one aimed like that.
In reply to VolvoHeretic :
Very close now.
Vanity is only 48" wide, and then set all the way to the right to allow the most room between that corner and the tub.
Shower opening should face the vanity.
VolvoHeretic said:
AWSX1686 (Forum Supporter) said:
In reply to VolvoHeretic :
The window is 36" wide, but only a foot off of the left wall.
Then the vanity would be on the same wall as the door. The shower would be closed off between the toilet and the shower door opening into that space between it and the vanity.
Is this a custom shower enclosure? I've never seen one aimed like that.
Yes, I'm planning to build the shower wall on the toilet side and then I'll just need a 36" show door.
Edit: since I am planning to build the shower wall beside the toilet that would be approx 5.5" finished width, which does unfortunately affect toilet space, but is accounted for in my current layout plan.
VolvoHeretic said:
This closer? How wide is the door? Everything measured to the finished wall? Is it lath and plaster? The floor drains need to run next to the floor joists up to the outside wall and into a soffit over to the first floor's right wall which looks like it should be the plumbing wall. When was the house built?
The house is all lathe and plaster, but I will be stripping the bathroom to the studs, so it will have drywall. The 106"x112" measure of the room is to the finished wall.
SV reX
MegaDork
1/10/24 10:08 p.m.
In reply to AWSX1686 (Forum Supporter) :
There is another problem with a shower that is 3' wide and 4' deep. If you pipe the diverter (shower valve) in the typical fashion (under the shower head), you won't be able to reach it from outside the shower. You will have to be standing in it (probably cold water) to turn it on.
It is possible to pipe the diverter onto a closer wall, but it's a lot more work.
You won't be able to use a stock fiberglass shower pan, it will cost more to build it, take longer, and be more prone to leaking.