I'm looking for all the means you guys have insulated your garage doors in the past; I've seen that there's kits all the way down to double-bubble reflective foil insulation, and I want to know whats the best option for insulating your existing door from the elements.
84FSP
UberDork
5/14/23 9:17 a.m.
I had decent luck with the foam core insulation sheets, cut to fit in the open door panels from the back.
I did the same as 84FSP. Metal (aluminum?) two-car wide door. Initially I just put them in the slot. Later, I added double-sided tape to hold it in and that seemed to quiet the door a lot.
Completely north-facing garage door. Didn't notice much difference in summer. In winter, it seemed to cool down a little more slowly when using a heater.
From what I know of insulation, you really need to do a 100% job. Anything less than 98% and you're not going to get good results.
My brother used the panels that fit in the door pockets, just be mindful that you might need to adjust or change the spring.
I went a different route and just got new insulated doors, they made a HUGE difference and were not that expensive. I believe I paid under $5k for two doors, 16x7 and 8x7. These were fully insulated and Miami/Dade hurricane code rated, so your location might be even cheaper.
I did mine with fiberglass insulation meant for garage doors. Owens corning I believe, they sell a kit. Fits nicely in the ribs/panels of a typical door. Not as nice as a prebuilt insulated door, as all the ribs still transfer some heat. Haven't done my main door (1 of 3) that has an opener on it, as after doing the others I realized I'll have to get new springs, much heavier. Made a huge difference, but I'm in the Southwest. In the summer it was unbearable to be near the doors in the afternoon, felt like you were under a heat lamp. Now you don't notice at all. I have a minisplit in the uninsulated garage, and the door insulation allows the minisplit to keep a reasonable temp when I have it on.
DocRob
Reader
5/18/23 10:47 a.m.
The door insulating kits all tend to work about the same, in my experience.
The biggest step is making sure you get the door opening sealed up. I always start by adjusting the threshold cushion, then add the rubber skirting/weather stripping along the outside opening. If you can see daylight anywhere around the door, then insulating the door doesn't help all that much. Once it's sealed up like a submarine hatch, foam or fiberglass boards in the panels will probably get you where you want to go.
Make sure you give yourself some flexibility in your sealing efforts as well. Because as the structure moves and settles with changing seasons, you'll probably have to adjust. In winter my door is sealed up tight as can be. Right now in late spring, it's dry as a bone here, and I'm getting daylight in one of my top corners. Unfortunately, whoever did the skirting around the door (I'm in a rental) didn't use adjustable skirting. So I can't adjust it in a bit to seal up.
I was able to get a bunch of fiberglass drop ceiling panels from a construction site trailer and used those. They took a little trimming but it wasn't bad at all and made a big difference.
I used this: https://a.co/d/40VBuIP
I immediately noticed that I'm much more comfortable in the garage in summer and winter. The sound reduction was an added benefit.
Thanks guys! I kind of figured that many were very similar; I've since realized my door already has some insulation, but I think several hard foam panels or double-bubble insulation couldn't hurt none if they're cheap enough.
DocRob said:
The door insulating kits all tend to work about the same, in my experience.
The biggest step is making sure you get the door opening sealed up. I always start by adjusting the threshold cushion, then add the rubber skirting/weather stripping along the outside opening. If you can see daylight anywhere around the door, then insulating the door doesn't help all that much. Once it's sealed up like a submarine hatch, foam or fiberglass boards in the panels will probably get you where you want to go.
Make sure you give yourself some flexibility in your sealing efforts as well. Because as the structure moves and settles with changing seasons, you'll probably have to adjust. In winter my door is sealed up tight as can be. Right now in late spring, it's dry as a bone here, and I'm getting daylight in one of my top corners. Unfortunately, whoever did the skirting around the door (I'm in a rental) didn't use adjustable skirting. So I can't adjust it in a bit to seal up.
Good to know- I was only shown "hard" skirting, nothing adjustable. I've needed to replace mine because a corner has some daylight, so I'll focus on that first.
I used 1/2 foam with radiant barrier facing the door with a 1/2"air gap to the door skin.
I glued little 1/2" thick blocks of foam to the door to act as spacers and press fit the foam cut to fit into the gaps around the interior off the panels. It made a huge difference in a Texas Gulf Coast garage with doors facing east and west.
In reply to Autovelox :
If i take mine down, i think i'll do the little blocks on the back trick. Mine move around a little due to no blocks, but they still work wonderfully. But if they could work even better..
thanks for the idea.