Dusterbd13-michael (Forum Supporter) said:That color scheme on the side actually looks pretty neat. You should recreate it, just better.
Any idea what broke in the window?
And what brand of duct tape? Im buying some!
Here's a photo of the car from the seller much closer to when the plastidip was applied. I think this photo is from 2015. It does look pretty good. I'm still not sure what path I'm going to take with it.
The last couple days while writing up this thread I've also been simultaneously working on fixing the window. Once I was at home and a little more relaxed about it, I took the door apart further. We could see pretty immediately that one of the pulleys was not on the cable, but what I didn't realize until taking it further apart at home is that there is a 4th cable, fully hidden behind the metal, and that cable was guitar-string tight. Of course it was holding the window up. I jumpered the motor from the battery and of course the window went down a little. Should have taken Singleslammer's idea on sunday morning, would have at least gotten me home in more mental comfort, oh well.
But I still needed to fix the pulley, since I think the cable being off was what allowed the extra window travel in the first place. The whole system is a bit finicky, but I was able to de-tension, reseat the cable, re-tension, lube, and then re-adjust all the tracks that I had dissassembled. With the jumpers, I proved to myself that I could roll the window all the way down and all the way back up, and that the window didn't "over-extend" anymore. Just last night I finished putting the whole door back together. The window switch itself doesn't consistently work, so I will need to find a solution there, but for now I'm confident that everything in the door works. Even better, the door actually closes and the top can be latched down.
The tape (I just checked) is actually TRex tape. I'm certainly impressed. You can tell it sticks well just pulling it off the roll. Thanks to Singleslammer for donating a partial roll to me.
My tach reads stupid high at low speed, but lags to the point that it is accurate at 3800, and low above that. The engine is mechanically safe to 8000, so drive by the feel of the power band.
