In reply to pimpm3 :
Want to sell me a door and fender?!? Or tail light lense??
That one doesn't look bad at all.
In reply to pimpm3 :
Want to sell me a door and fender?!? Or tail light lense??
That one doesn't look bad at all.
It is worse now. I parked it after the fire. Apparently they will run with no carb. Unfortunately when running without said carb a back fire out the intake manifold results in much angst for the driver...
In reply to Daylan C :
Good to know! I think its going to need a lot of backspace. The wheels are super tucked.
I'd stick with the original IH 392 engine for now. They weren't built for high performance but were torquey and durable - a great truck engine.
The trim may be a mix of stainless and anodized aluminum - it's hard to tell from photos but the trim tht went around the woodgrain sections sure looked like aluminum to me. Stainless parts will be relatively heavy compared to aluminum, and the anodizing on aluminum parts tends to get hazy with age.
Gibbs brand protectant is supposed to be the hot tip for protecting bare metal, they say you can even paint over it without having to remove it. The guys who do run bare metal cars say it lasts a long time when used on the body panels. https://www.gibbsbrandlubricant.com
In reply to stuart in mn :
The 392 is the plan for now. This is a cruiser.
I'll check into the trim more. Haven't had time to really play with it yet.
Interesting on the Gibbs, if wife doesn't want to perfect and shiny, I can get the body work done much faster.
java230 said:In reply to pimpm3 :
Want to sell me a door and fender?!? Or tail light lense??
That one doesn't look bad at all.
If you need body parts (anything else for that matter) contact Coonrod's IH in Grant, CO.
LOT'S of rust free panels.
Edit, I mis-spelled the name. It's Coonrod's (double o in the middle)
Here's a link to the facebook to grab the phone number. Phone call is the only way to contact them. I don't even think Phil has a computer, his wife put up that page to get the phone number out there.
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Coonrods-Ih-Parts/859964014102231
I’ve never driven one but the 392 (and 345) have the reputation of punching way over their weight. 345 Scout II’s always had the reputation of being ballzier than 350 Blazers or 351 Broncos.
A logger around here towed a D6 Cat for years behind a tandem axle IH truck with just a 392. Probably illegal as berk due to weight. A D6 is no giant but it’s not exactly a toy either.
In reply to A 401 CJ :
Yeah they are tractor engines no doubt. IH rated them as continuous duty at 3600rpm.
Ita got a Holley carb sitting on it. That's all I know. Nothing is hooked up. I have some learning to Do....
Poked around for a few minutes yesterday. I need a shop manual. Wirring diagram, vacuume line diagram, uh everything else diagram? Its alllllll taken apart.
Thoughts on fixing the door and bumper vs trying to find a new one?
A few interior shots. Lots of parts to dig though..... And so much room for activites!
Dusterbd13-michael said:Lace is awesome.
Why no ac? A vintage air front unit, and a rear system from a suburban should be simle to put in. Hell, I've done 25+ ac installations in classic cars. Never messed with the rear air, but have seen it done. I think theres an aftermarket kit for it, but dont quoteme.
Also, if the airbag system is already plumbed, make sure that all 4 bags are independent of one another. Some REALLY funky handling when its not.
You just painted a target on yourself for when I get around to doing the AC on the Molvo. As an engineer I can tell you why an AC system works. As a fabricator/mechanic. I have no idea of how to connect the dots and make my collection of Ford and Miata parts work in the Molvo.
Pete
In reply to NOHOME :
And on that note, I did some digging oh, this is a factory air truck. I'm tempted to get it working again!! The compressor is r12, and it looks like I'm missing some parts..... Any reason to not swap it out for something more modern?
In reply to NOHOME :
Im a fat, hairy, Italian yankee in the south. Im already a target!
But more than willing to help. Just let me know!
In reply to java230 :
Id swap out the compressor, drier, expansion valve, hoses and condenser. A modern system based on 134a uses barrier hoses, a slightly different style condenser. I generally find the biggest dual pass condenser i can fit on ebay. Call classic auto air for the fittings, expansion valve and drier. Sanden 508 knockoff from ebay, and barrier hose from parker. Not hard, or complicated.
In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :
Hmmmm ok, I'll have to come Back to that one. Sounds like all new parts really. Can't even use the condenser (I think that's the name.... Part by the radiator) ?
In reply to java230 :
You CAN, its just not optimized for todays refrigerant. Hell, you could legitimately slam a 508 on it and fill with pag oil and 134a and run it. Won't be fantastic, but will be functional until all the refrigerant leaks out (134a is a smaller molecular structure)
Ok guys. Vote time.
Holley EFI
Or drop on tbi.
Same price. Holley is expandable (turbos etc in the future) tbi is drop on guy makes custom electronic dizzy and has a tune.
Kinda leaning drop on.... But turbos sound fun in the future.....
The holley system will retain resale value if plans change. In addition, more guys willing to touch them.
The bolt on: youre paying for his tune. How good is it? Is it tuned to YOUR specific setup, or just a general "IH engine measuring 392"
Love this thing! Stock color is dreamy, and definitely would look killer on a set of Detroit Steel Wheels 20s (cutouts OR smooth): https://detroitsteelwheel.com/
Are you dead set on keeping the airride manual? I put a Vera Air digital management kit on the Lexus and it's a real slick setup for being as cheap as it is. Also, something about being able to raise/lower from a keyfob that will always bring out the kid in me.
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