Shroud is 3” and depth at the end of the motor shafts is 4.5”
Shroud is 3” and depth at the end of the motor shafts is 4.5”
Single fan solutions were either too deep, too tall, or had insufficient air flow to cool the car. Dual fans allowed for water pump snout to slip right in between the fan motor projections.
With all the motorcycle distractions slowing down I am able to get back on to the Cougar. I picked up the ceramic coated headers and powder coated frame plate. I had the headers done in dark grey ceramic. Plate in black.
Started to install the headers and saw the reduced clearance with the shock towers with the new engine stands and mounts. Seeing that, I decided to remove the upper A arms and turn in the Heim joints to help with clearance on the front fender lower corners on the advice of Street or Track, my supplier. I pulled the front brakes and then disassembled the spindle, strut rod, tie rod end, and the lower shock mount then pulled the upper A arm. I cranked both Heim joints in 3 turns, replaced the adjustable strut rod (damaged by the gorilla at the alignment shop last summer), and started rebuilding the system. Tonight I’ll wrap up passenger side then move on the drivers side for the same adjustment before buttoning it back up and getting the headers installed.
I modified the block plate for oil pan clearance and confirmed it was good to I can mount it and then the flywheel, clutch and bellhousing after checking run out of the bellhousing. Pics to follow.
Headers in, then DS out, to get the bellhousing installed. I mounted the bellhousing using the OEM dowel pins and checked run out. It was close but exceeded allowable tolerance so I had to resort to the 0.007" offset dowel pins I ordered preciously. Installing those and going thru the tweaking got me where I needed to be so that's good. Tonight I will mount the clutch and pressure plate and drill the bell for the slave cylinder mounting plate. Before I mount the bell I'll pull the pedals to add the roller bearing kit and the hydraulic clutch master cylinder. I love working under the dashboard.
Earlier in the day yesterday I did some work on the PS plumbing. I wasn't fond at all with the pieces from Unisteer and had already added some 45's and 90's to tighten things up. I saw this piece when perusing Eddie Motorsports and ordered it. Much cleaner!
Original state
Way better
Seems like some of the stuff I accomplished on my Grüne Hölle project..
But no power steering or electric Fans (yet) on that car.
Keep moving along.... a lil bit every day!
Greg
Yup I agree Patrick.
Thanks for the boost slantsix. I just need to keep on it.
I pulled the bellhousing then reinstalled the DS header. I then spent some time with the hydraulics and clutch bits. I need to install everything then check travel of clutch arm. With correct values I can then pull the bell and mount the hydraulics.
It was cooking today in the garage but I got back to the Cougar today. I pulled the steering column then the pedal box to install a bearing kit as the 51 year old zinc and plastic bushings were done. I fought to get the bearings installed after noting the clutch pedal pivot axle is both grooved deeply and galled. Bearing kit has a new axle but I am without a welder. Hydraulic clutch linkage requires a bushing on the pedal but mounting hole on pedal is all ovaled/wallered/worn out. I’ll head to the fab shop for repair costs but may end up with a new pedal depending on cost. With that stopping me from reinstalling the pedal box I couldn’t mount clutch master cylinder. I did mount slave cylinder to the bellhousing but am dead in the water right now.
Do you have anything you are using for instructions on installing your hydraulic clutch? MDL gave me nothing for my install.
I’ve got instructions for both the pedal set and master cylinder as well as the slave cylinder. What do you need?
7:30am at the fab shop for their input. Owner says $80 to drive out shaft and weld in new then weld up pedal bushing. Says a couple of days. I tell him OK. New pedal is $160 but could get it today. I get a call at about noon that pedal is done! It goes in tonight!
Wow, been more than a minute here. Summer was odd and motivation lacking so I spent a lot of time riding my new-to-me Ducati. I did a few bits but dug back in earnest this weekend. I finished clutch installation then finished bellhousing mods for hydraulic slave cylinder and mounted the aluminum Fox body bell housing. I had a collection of odd bolts holding the old cast iron OEM bellhousing and three speed on, so I bought a bunch of lengths of the correct bolts and lock washers then mounted it and torqued it in place. I had installed the cutch release lever than followed the instructions on throw-out bearing position (zero lash) and set the slave pushrod length. I modified the dust cover and painted the exposed edge and will install that once the slave is bled. I made a small bracket to mount the clutch reservoir then painted in and mounted that. I ran the reservoir line and the pressure line then locked them down. With the clutch master cylinder taking the spot where the brake proportioning valve used to live I bought a couple of brackets from NPD to mock up some mounts. I'll have to make some new brake lines due to the valve being moved but not a big deal. I need to mount the pedals and do all the linkage adjustments so I can finish pedal install which is also the brake master cylinder mount then on to the steering column reinstall.
Pics soon.
Couple of recent pictures
Ram clutch
Bellhousing
Clutch slave cylinder in place
Yesterday I got the pedals back in place with the brake master cylinder and proportioning valve bracket. I adjusted the clutch master cyl8nder travel then did the same with the clutch pedal linkage before locking the adjustments down. I need to loosen and rotate the fuse block slightly to clear the fasteners on the clutch pedal. I need to reconfigure brake lines to the prop valve then work on PS lines. Is also need to get to the hardware store to get a circlip to replace the one that left the clutch pedal pin accelerating at the speed of light in to a low earth orbit.
My garage space is tight so I have to push the car out of the garage to access the under dash work. It rained this morning and again this afternoon but I did have a window of clear weather so I pushed her out. I picked up some more e-clips the morning came home and got the pin in position and clip installed. Tweaked the fuse block position enough for clearance and started on the brake lines.
Today I did a trial run on some 9" wide wheels with 30mm offset. Unfortunately they hit the upper ball joint so I'll stick with what I have for now.
I moved on to transmission install and did some garage cleaning. Pulled the trans outta the box and got it on the trans jack. With my MaxJax lift it wouldn't quite fit so I dropped the car down and put in the lift extensions. I also pulled the shifter assembly (not lever) from the trans as the stub is higher than the rest of the trans. Sons soccer game then back home and back at it tonight's and all day tomorrow.
In reply to wawazat :
Are you going to be able to get a drive in before the salt?
I can hope Brian but still have a lot of work in front of me. Hopefully things go well tomorrow.
Tonight my ‘69 Mercury with a 1970 engine was attached to a 2000 Ford bellhousing and a 2018 TKO trans.
Woo Hoo!
Tomorrow measure for the new driveshaft and get that ordered then install the new trans mount. Then about 1000 other things.
This os awesome. I LOVE the tko swap in the duster
You'll need to log in to post.
