In reply to Ian F (Forum Supporter) :
No, the exhaust cutout is silly aftermarket junk. I actually cut it off already, and will patch the tube before reinstalling.
On the skid plate, I would potentially be willing to have it project a little bit into that area, but I think a giant diving board like the original deflector is asking for trouble.
In reply to ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ :
Ah, right. Looking at the picture again, I can see how it was welded in. I suppose if you could cut out what they welded in you could sell it to another unsuspecting tuner bro?
In reply to Ian F (Forum Supporter) :
I could only imagine how bad it sounds with a cutout.
Sara got in there and fixed the "chopped" sticker while I wasn't looking:
In reply to ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ :
How are you gonna get the Instagram likes without that chopped sticker?
i mean every race brz i see, every thing in front of the shock towers is cut out and replaced with tube so i doubt that the plastic panels do any better than some good fans.
Exhaust is patched and I added some little ramps so it doesn't get hung up when it inevitably bottoms out on stuff:
I've been trying to tidy up the wiring and little stuff like actually pushing in the plastic fasteners in the engine bay- I think this car had some "dress up" engine bay pieces that were hastily removed, along with some sketchy subwoofer wiring remains. Just trying to have it together enough that when the tech gets the recall work, they don't immediately write it off as abused garbage.
Anybody reading this who missed the suspension and undertray stuff on the previous page, feel free to read it and weigh in- that was a busy day so I don't want it to get lost in the mix of all the posts here.
If you can make the skidplate work as the undertray, that would probably be best
In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :
I'd be willing to put a "splitter" section on the front of the skid plate that projects out a few inches, but taking it all the way to the bumper would be too low and too far forward from an "approach angle" perspective.
My other thought is to make the plate coexist with the tray in such a way that, if the tray takes a hard hit and breaks off, it will actually submarine under the skid plate rather than going up and into the radiator.
In reply to ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ :
I'd be tempted to try making the skid plate however you want and then putting a piece of coroplast from the top front edge of the skid to the bumper. Basically make shift radiator ducting that wouldn't be a big deal to remake if it got hit. Did that make sense? I can sketch it out if it helps.
In reply to shagles :
Yep, makes sense assuming it would be rigid enough by itself.
One of the regular listeners to our podcast (Everyone Racers), who we had on the show once (and who runs in our iRacing group on Mondays) to tell us about rally, is a guy who is pretty successful in stage rally with a BRZ, Santiago Daniel Iglesias. He's a super nice dude and I'm sure would share everything he knows for setup. He's also totally GRM as his tow pig is an LT1 Roadmaster wagon.
His team name is escuderia boricua, I know he is on FB. If these don't work I can find another way to get you in touch with him.
https://m.facebook.com/escuderiaboricua/
In reply to Sonic :
saw the dyno pics on his instagram. the brz makes a whopping 129hp/126ftlb to the wheels.
In reply to Sonic :
I will talk to him for sure- I always just thought that was TRF's rental car, but I guess he owns it! Thanks for pointing that out.
In reply to ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ :
I was thinking the same thing.
Maybe they sold the first one and built a second one? From the TRF website:
Our Previous “Fan Favorite” Rental Car:
2013 Subaru BRZ |16,000 Miles |Build Completed in 2016 |5 Stage rallies to date
Bilstein Suspension | Wilwood Brakes |MoTeC M1 ECU With Datalogging
TRF built chassis | Currently tuned to run on E-80 Ethanol blend
Ian was nice enough to drop by with a VW Avus 15" wheel for me to try- looks like it'll clear with a 15mm spacer, which would put the effective offset at a not-totally-terrifying +23mm. This seems more reasonable than the 15" Subaru wheels which would need a 35-40mm spacer and have an effective offset of something like +10mm.
Wheel scrapers might be important, though, with the brake caliper very close to the inside of the rim.
you fixed the grounds yet?
In reply to MrChaos :
Soon, although I have the battery out to measure strut tower stuff right now.
The VW wheels present a new annoying problem, in that they're intended to use 14mm diameter ball seat hardware. Not sure if I want to convert to 14mm wheel studs unless the Subaru wheels have big enough holes.
Time for more numbers to hopefully make the wheel problem clearer for myself.
Fancy rally wheels: $800-1200/set
Needs: ARP M12 Wheel Studs ($160)
Pros: Indestructible, fits w/o spacer
Cons: Cost per wheel
10x wheels total cost: $2160-3160
Subaru Legacy wheels: $100-200/set
Needs: ARP M12 Wheel Studs ($160) + 35mm bolt on spacers ($300 or cheap plus another set of better studs, about the same)
Pros: Any cheap Subaru 5x100 wheel will fit on the spacer, wheels interchangeable with other teams and current recce car
Cons: Spacers need to be removed to service brakes/hubs, spacers need retorque by removing wheels in service
10x wheels total cost: $710-960
VW Avus wheels: $100-200/set
Needs: ARP M14 Wheel Studs ($160) + 15mm slip on spacers ($80)
Pros: Stronger hardware, cheap wheels, most 16"+ Subaru wheels will still fit
Cons: Some Subaru wheels may not fit, hardware requires drilling out hubs and rotors
10x wheels total cost: $490-740
I'm not sure this is helping me pick between the cheaper options but it does a nice job of demonstrating why I'm jumping through hoops trying to find a way not to do that first thing- the cost difference buys an ENTIRE EXTRA ENTRY FEE and lodging and stuff. It's worth noting that I use M14x1.5 studs on the Merkur and they do fit through the holes on the Subaru wheels I have, although just barely.
I'm a little confused on your prices. If a set of 4 wheels costs $800-$1200, how does 10 wheels (2.5 sets) cost $8160-$12160? Seems they should cost $3000 at the high end? Granted, the "cheap" options have a similar disparity.
In reply to Ian F (Forum Supporter) :
Yeah I berkeleyed up, needed more coffee. Multiplied as if it was a per wheel price instead of per set. Corrected, sorry, I should really proofread instead of just smacking the post button. Clearly my intention deep down is to be the level of awesome that requires 40+ rally tires.
Hopefully everybody can enjoy the image of me, coffee in hand, stumbling out into the shop, grabbing a spare M14 wheel stud from the Merkur's hardware box, and trying to slot it through every Subaru wheel I own, because that's exactly what led to the previous post.
In reply to ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ :
are you going to have a set or more of pre drilled hubs and rotors on hand at all events just in case something happens?
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