In reply to wvumtnbkr :
Nope. Im still watching from the stands with my dad!
You know, 14.60s are nothing to sneeze at. And you’ll just get better as you get more familiar with the car, and the process of drag racing. Well done!
I hope i didn't give the wrong impression.
Im ECSTATIC with getting into the 14.6x range. On my 6th run down tbe strip. Over 6 runs, i have shaved 2.5 seconds off my drag times. Thats all driver.
Im learning to drive the car. Shifting at 5250, launching at 2300rpm off the handbrake worked to get me that time.
Im sure there was at least another tenth to be gotten tonight. On street tires.
Drag tires should get me another few tenths. Which puts me in striking distance of a stock base model c5 corvette, which is regarded as an incredible performance car to this day. It cost 40k. Mine cost 2k.
Im doing pretty damned good!
Dad and i are going to nut and bolt check the car, find a better solution to the steering wheel quick release (tack welds?) Check alignment, add a manual cooling fan override switch for cooling off between runs, and get ready for next weekend. If all goes according to plan, strip friday night on slicks, saturday and sunday back to back autocross events.
Ambitious for a 2k car...
Im enjoying being a driver right now instead of a builder. This is new and fun!
wvumtnbkr said:Did you put those times and mph into a good drag race calculator to see what hp you are making?
Just did. Mph says 182 fluwheel, 151 wheel. Et is a few horsepower less.
And, i DO have 4.10 gears based on trap speed at the rev limiter and 205/50/15
In reply to Justjim75 :
It was very much reduced! Im wondering if the coupler was starting to loosen last time causing part of the issue.
Soeaking of coupler: locktite failed, and i apparently didn't dimple for setscrews. Were cleaning threads, and theres a GOOD dimple under each setscrew now.
Wait... explain how this steering thing attaches.
If it isn't on the spines or welded, not sure if drive it. Especially without power assist.
It threadson to the threaded section of the column usually used by the steering wheel nut. Has a machined female taper to friction fit the splines. Then, a pair od 1/4 inchish set screws.
This time, instead of depending on friction, we cleaned the bejeezus out of it, added locktite red instead of blue, countersunk some holes for the set screws to fit into.
In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :
Giving the set screws a dimple to bite into should make a world of difference.
In reply to java230 :
Thats what dad thought. He said locktie should have been enough if i had cleaned it properly the first time (i swear i thought it was spotless! However, it was most definitely NOT) but the dimples were cheap insurance. Im a belt and suspenders kind of guy....
So, dad has put a wrench on every single accessible nut and bolt in the entire car. Just to double check tightness. He can't get to the bellhousing, flywheel, or oil pan bolts. So those were not checked.
He said one rear control arm bolt took two turns. A handful of others needed a flat or so of tightening.
Id call that pretty good assembly!
After work this week i need to finish the spoiler, flush the coolant, and make a fan override switch. Two day autocross this weekend and test and tune at the strip on slicks.
Then, clean every inch of the car, touch up paint, etc for the challenge. I figure 50 days should be enough for voncourse prep.
Anyone have good feedback on how to do the build books, budget books, etc? Steve took care of it for us in 2017, and im not sure what is the proper way to go about it.
Keep your fingers crossed! We should be ready to run all weekend if the weather holds!
Im excited. I really like this whole learning to be a driver thing.
Will ve doing the whole weekend with 3 point belts and the na seats, however. Im just not comfortable with the temporary harness bar. A weld in one will begin next week. Along with anal retentive detailing and cleaning and....
Dad took my cardboard and duct tape spoiler idea, and spent some time with scraps of paneling and 2x4s. We now have ALL the downforce. Still need to do the tension wires befire testing.
You know you’re officially never allowed to have a challenge car without a stupid huge wing now, right? You’re that guy
also $5 says it tears off the car
Patrick said:You know you’re officially never allowed to have a challenge car without a stupid huge wing now, right? You’re that guy
also $5 says it tears off the car
Im ok with being that guy!
And after the guide wires, i think itll stay to 70mph or so. Autocross speeds.
My guess is also something near 800lbs of downforce at 70mph, so im may shred the paneling.
I would say about 200# of reinforce is gonna be enough to collapse the trunk and mess up the hinges if it isn't supported underneath...
Spoken from experience with a small wing on an e36.
I wonder if you could run a wing strut up from a receiver trailer hitch, so it's easy to remove when you aren't trying to dig into the earth. Plus you would then have a trailer hitch for other stuff.
pres589 (djronnebaum) said:I wonder if you could run a wing strut up from a receiver trailer hitch, so it's easy to remove when you aren't trying to dig into the earth. Plus you would then have a trailer hitch for other stuff.
I have actually already started building reciever hitch mounted downforce. Id love to be the first to show up with it at the $2020 if you want to keep it between just the 46 of us
No trailer hitch for this one! Its removable with a screwdriver and 7/16 wrench pretty quickly so far. Strut/tension wires still to be added.
Good part is, if you find it to be too much downforce, you can make small adjustments with just a hacksaw and a file.
7 runs this morning!
Even had a pro driver run it once, and there is still WAY more in the car than either him or i have gotten out of it.
Tomorrow is another day of autocross!
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