Project Hazmat '09 Honda Civic Si

They look even better in black with polished lip...I still want a set even though I don't know what car I'd put them on.

I approve of all th in ngs with torque thrust style wheels 

I'm annoyed that Mustang wheels fit your Honda better than they did my Mustang.

studies have been done that having a stronger/more rigid wheel can offset a decent amount of weight... ie: a heavier, more rigid wheel will be quicker on track than a lighter, more flexible wheel...

so here's hoping if they're heavy, theyre rigid ;)

In reply to apexanimal :

They're supposed to be super strong. 

In reply to spacecadet :

The ones on my SN95 took a direct hit with a large rock in a ditch to the lip one day and barely chipped.

It's a good day to come play out in mineral wells

Watch those shoulders brah. Mineral Wells hates shoulders. 

In reply to mazdeuce - Seth :

Watch them... yes

Save them.... 

Those tires were done before that, no tread at all!

docwyte said:

Those tires were done before that, no tread at all!

For what we were doing at mineral wells. They were great. 

They started with like 1/32nd throwaway tires.. Great ones to just beat the crap out of without mercy. 

RE71's seem to care more about heat cycles than actual tread depth remaining. Although you've pretty well used them up now haha.

In reply to klodkrawler05 :

absolutely agree, they're good (when not heat cycled out) as long as you're not into the secondary rubber.. which I went straight through here.. 

Well the radio has been working...kinda.. It's jumping sources randomly.. Seems to be tied to vibration from road bumps.. 

So my goal is to pull this radio completely and get a knockoff plate and surround from the DX model. And mount an aux input behind it like on Seth's Traccord. I have my Bluetooth device that works phenomenal and it just need an aux to output to. 

Radio is one thing I will not do without or sacrifice on sound quality. Thats why I drug out my old Pioneer. I know I can save 6 or seven lbs by pulling it and the factory sub, but I like my toons and I want that full quality sound for the road trips.

EDIT: also, if it's jumping sources, make sure it has a CD in there. The last 2 OE stereos we had issues with the little foot that reads that there's a CD in it spring was weak and without one it would rattle enough to trip it and either turn it on, or try to read a cd that wasn't there and then cycle back to another input. 

awesome!  i've always wondered when i'd see someone grab a set of stang wheels for these.  the bolt pattern is the same and you can find torque-thrusts / Cobra R reps all day on craigslist for chump change.  makes total sense to me.

bobzilla said:

Radio is one thing I will not do without or sacrifice on sound quality. Thats why I drug out my old Pioneer. I know I can save 6 or seven lbs by pulling it and the factory sub, but I like my toons and I want that full quality sound for the road trips.

EDIT: also, if it's jumping sources, make sure it has a CD in there. The last 2 OE stereos we had issues with the little foot that reads that there's a CD in it spring was weak and without one it would rattle enough to trip it and either turn it on, or try to read a cd that wasn't there and then cycle back to another input. 

There is no CD in it. I'll look at throwing a CD in there and see if it gets better... this radio is approaching lost cause. 

Stuck a CD in the drive last night.. 

Still having issues with the radio... 

Tried to pull the transmission mount last night to inspect it.. But I don't have a big enough breaker bar or socket to break the bolts free. So we'll come back to that another time. 

Something I had been noticing was an occasional hesitation on tip in to the throttle.. Wasn't sure why.. But figured car was well used and I'd figure it out eventually. 

Well found it last night. 

Turns out the PCV inlet to the intake tube was not clamped and was pretty well buggered up. So I put the tube in from the stock intake I got from my buddy and wouldn't you know my throttle is fantastic now. 

I also decided to get some sandpaper last night to see if I could strip the clearcoat off and preserve the base layer... 

NOPE.

Less than 10 seconds at possibly a too aggressive level and I was into the primer... 

Well.. Answered that question.  

You gotta rub that paint like someone you love or it all goes bad. 

There's only one solution for that problem: STICKER BOMB

mazdeuce - Seth said:

You gotta rub that paint like someone you love or it all goes bad. 

What the clearcoat needed to come off meant the paint near it went with it. I thought his might happen and I went forward trying this because the paint was a fairly lost cause anyway. 

Progress in a forward direction! did a successful headlight restoration and cleaned the windows to get rid of the years of dust and the headliner material. 

headlights before, and this is a good photo

headlights now! 

I used "invisible glass" brand wipes on the windows and this was a good combo to get rid of the headliner crap.

restoring headlights is always such a rewarding task. The car looks better and the safety is improved! win/win!

I really want to see you use something more along these lines for paint. 



It covers extremely well

Wasn't this one of the years that had the paint recall? All Civics of this gen had this clearcoat failure. Not sure if this covers it or not, but here's an article about it. 

Linky