NOHOME wrote: Where did the suspension go? Last I checked it was welded in pretty good before you cut the frame rails short?
I should have clarified, that's not my photo or my car, but one I borrowed from a user's build on the turbobrick forum to illustrate how I plan to do the a pillar to frame rail down bars. I believe he was fitting a late model 6 cylinder volvo engine into his. http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=266659
$3-5k is a decent chunk, but less than I was expecting considering how long it'd have to run, size, and all.
So how did you verify there was no twist in your front frame rails when mocking it up and welding?
In reply to 275nart:
I have a t5 behind a B230f+t. Works great!
275nart wrote: For the rear end, obviously the wimpy dana volvo rear end can not handle the added power. They are known to break axles when pushed just over the factory power rating. I have an exploder (explorer) 3.73 lsd, disk brake axle that will be going in. I will have to narrow the driver's side ~3" and run another passenger axle in the housing to get it to a 56.5" track width.
That's exactly what I have going in the Rice Rod. Also, just so I'm caught up to speed...
You Z'ed a frame...for a Volvo. Like they do for hot rods. But it's going to be a Ferrari. With a Jag V12. But a Ford Explorer axle. And a Mustang front end
...This is bad friggin ass.
Wow! this is going to be fun to watch.
Crackers wrote: $3-5k is a decent chunk, but less than I was expecting considering how long it'd have to run, size, and all. So how did you verify there was no twist in your front frame rails when mocking it up and welding?
Before I welded it all together I set the frame rails on stands and used shims (just large diamter washers) to level the frame rails out then dropped the tub on top. I measured from the outside edge of the frame rails to the inside edge of the 2x3 tube rockers to get it centered and square. When I set the tub down on the rails it did need a little weight placed on the driver's side rear corner to level out perfectly on the rails. You can see the jack stands under the rails in the previous post.
This should be fun
maschinenbau wrote:275nart wrote: For the rear end, obviously the wimpy dana volvo rear end can not handle the added power. They are known to break axles when pushed just over the factory power rating. I have an exploder (explorer) 3.73 lsd, disk brake axle that will be going in. I will have to narrow the driver's side ~3" and run another passenger axle in the housing to get it to a 56.5" track width.That's exactly what I have going in the Rice Rod. Also, just so I'm caught up to speed... You Z'ed a frame...for a Volvo. Like they do for hot rods. But it's going to be a Ferrari. With a Jag V12. But a Ford Explorer axle. And a Mustang front end ...This is bad friggin ass.
Thanks man. I had considered a 2jz (n/a) with the solstice trans for this project too. I have been following your progress too.
In reply to 275nart:
Cool, I'm about to start cutting on my project which will be done in a similar, but opposite fashion. (I'm saving the body and putting tubing on the inside of the existing rockers.)
I'm not building a new chassis for it's initial version, but if I keep it, the tubing in the rockers will serve as a starting point to do exactly what you're doing when I do the next "phase".
Crackers wrote: In reply to 275nart: Cool, I'm about to start cutting on my project which will be done in a similar, but opposite fashion. (I'm saving the body and putting tubing on the inside of the existing rockers.) I'm not building a new chassis for it's initial version, but if I keep it, the tubing in the rockers will serve as a starting point to do exactly what you're doing when I do the next "phase".
I've seen that done with some pro touring builds on foxes and 1st and 2nd gen camaros. At this point I guess you call it a body in frame? Frame in body? 
Is this real life? (keep it going....) 
(I apologize for the derail in advance but I couldn't let the opp slip away lol. This thing is going to be bad ass when it's all said and done! 
)
Got it rolling on the wire wheels. I needed to remove a lot of material from the ouside of the calipers and also grind away the "nubs" on the inside of the wheel bore. It looks super long without the doors or front bodywork but the wheelbase is the correct 94.5-95"
Very impressive! Makes me feel like a hack...what a minute, iam a hack...lol. keep up the good work
Graystang wrote: Very impressive! Makes me feel like a hack...what a minute, iam a hack...lol. keep up the good work
Thank you Graystang, maybe I'm the hack though with all the hacking up I've done to that volvo body.
A little progress to report. I have been busy dressing up the engine a bit.
new timing indicator plate which took a few weeks to get here. This allowed me to pull the distributor.
I removed the upper valley cover and re-sealed it.
Then I got a little busy with the wire wheel to get rid of some of the corrosion as well.
next I can tackle those awfully ugly water rails
powder coated the engine lift hooks. I'm sure it'll chip off but it looks better than rust!
Hardware needed to be replaced.
Before the water rails go back on I cleaned and added a little sealant around the cam tower blocks. This is a common area for leaks and this simple fix supposedly keeps it from leaking further.
water rails back on. I will fabricate a new front crossover/fill pipe and powdercoat the cam covers soon.
Wow, I haven't been on here regularly the past month or so, so this kind of slid under my build radar until today. Amazing!
Also, I know we're all mesmerized by what's going on with the build, but we're going to need some more pics/info on this piece of Honda CB jewelry :
Thanks man. Here's a better pic...
you can read about that bike here
http://www.returnofthecaferacers.com/2016/11/caferacer-honda-cb750.html
I have started fitting the engine. Even with the custom front end it is like putting a square peg in a round hole.
I want it to sit about 6-7 inches further back so the firewall will need to trimmed before I can even make the engine mounts.
I also need to move the pedal box over about 1-2". It would barely clear now but I want a little room. I am going to switch to an electric power steering column and move the steering shaft so it enters through the firewall much lower as well.
The alternator is also going to need to be relocated higher up. I will switch to a smaller higher amperage unit in the process. I'd like the engine to sit much lower down so I'm going to need to play with the steering rack mounts. I welded them a little high up on the crossmember to begin with.
This project is neato burrito!
Please continue to share.
Also have you considered buying an English wheel to do the body? You obviously have skills.
mblommel wrote: This project is neato burrito!
Thanks! I have actually. I've had at least a dozen people suggest this- either online or in person. I will give it some more thought.
Im not sure what you plan to do with this once its ready to roll (i.e. just a cruiser, motorsport, etc), but Im glad to hear you want to push that back some. When I saw the first couple pics, all I could think was that you would need some serious rubber and a school bus steering wheel to get that thing to turn. Setting the mill back and down should really help!
This is a shockingly concise approach to a complicated build. Or, maybe you just really know your stuff...
"If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough." - Albert Einstein
For sure you are going to want an e-wheel. I Built this one using the Hoosier Patterns wheels and adjusters. I welded up the frame from 3/8" 2x6" tube.
When I need it, I love it. Funny thing is that it gets used mostly with a soft upper wheel to create long rounded panels without putting a raised shape in the panel; as if you were doing a rocker panel.
Takes up a lot of space! Makes people think you are way more talented than you really are
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