In reply to Antihero (Forum Supporter) :
I mostly ignore the lifter tick. I think the only reason it bothers me is resale value. Who would want to buy a ticking truck?
My valve covers leaked so I fixed them. I had a rear main leak which I nursed through until it really needed a clutch. So I did a clutch and a rear main. Not only did the clutch fail (we think maybe it was the wrong diaphragm... super hard to push and wouldn't fully disengage), but the rear main still leaked. So we did another clutch and this time used the repair sleeve on the crank with some green locktite and a good FelPro main seal. Now it leaks even worse. My brand new pavement on my driveway is completely ruined and I need a quart every 500 miles. The back of the truck is coated with oil spray. Then of course I had the intake leak at the front, so I did the works. Basically, it if was a replaceable part from the heads up, I replaced it. Injectors, o-rings, stat, FPR, belts, hoses, plugs, wires, coil, cleaned the TB, cleaned the IAC, cleaned the MAF, and treated it to a non-oiled washable air filter. Radiator sprung a leak, so I replaced. Then the heater core sprung a leak. Then three months later, it sprung a leak again. U joints were bad so I replaced. Front bearings were growling so I replaced. Three months later at an inspection they noticed one was loose so they tightened it. Replaced front brakes and rotors and the bearings looked fine, but I replaced them again anyway since they were cheap. Within one year they were so loose my rotors were rubbing the calipers. Front hubs broke (common) so I replaced them with manual hubs. Shifter bushing (common) has been done twice in the 2.5 years I've owned it. The shocks have blown, so I ordered some. Now I have an EGR code and the DPFSRE (whatever that EGR sensor is called) tested bad, but a new one didn't fix the surge/misfire.... put it this way. I paid $4000 for the truck and I know I've put more than $4000 in 2.5 years just to keep it running, and it's STILL NOT RIGHT. My next step on the surge/misfire is to gut the cats. If that fixes it, I have a universal cat I can weld in. The frustrating part is that it doesn't start misfiring and surging until you go about 40-50 miles. By the end of a 250 mile trip I am topping hills in 3rd gear at 45, and the only code I get is for the EGR.
But it's not rusty. In fact, it's so un-rusty that it still has the entire factory original exhuast from manifolds to tailpipe, and parts of it still look like shiny silver metal. I'm starting to believe it's just because it leaks so much oil that it keeps the underside covered in 5w30.
I'm strongly considering going for broke and dropping in a 4.6L/4R70W, but it's my only vehicle (running and inspectable) right now, so I would have to buy a second work vehicle while I make this one a project... with no garage.... and no need for a third project car.... and if I buy a decent other work vehicle, I don't need a souped-up Branger anyway. That means, buy something else and get what I can for this lemon-flavored money pit.