Robbie (Forum Supporter) said:
John do you have multiple keys? Tried them all? Maybe a weak key and immobilizer issue?
I did, for the heck, of it try another key, even knowing...
When I bought this truck it came with only one, really worn, key. I went to the Ford dealer to get a good proper key cut from the VIN. I figured it was worth the big dollars I was sure it would cost. The parts counter guy (who didn't see the truck) said, "where'd you get this truck?" I was then informed that 2006 was the last year that fleet customers (only) could order trucks with no immobilizer chip. For a real Ford key, I paid $3.25. Yeah, I bought a total of 3. Less than $10
dean1484 said:
A bit late to the party here but voltage at the battery is not that good an indicator of battery health. You need to do a load test to truly know the battery's condition.
Noted previously the 12.18. Versus 12.8 is moot. You can have an ok battery at 12.18 and a useless battery at 12.81. To many variables to use that as a determining factor. A load test will sort out things giving you a proper answer as to the battery condition.
Yah, you can have a series of D-cells making 12.8v but not have enough current to crank an engine.
I am curious to hear what the verdict is.
In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :
Today's tow truck driver tried jumping it before loading it. No change. He also crawled under with hammer to starter while I turned the key. No change.
Yes, $5 tip, "here, lunch is on me" to the driver.
As I re-read what I wrote above... really worn key.
Worn ignition too???
Do those still have the fender mounted starter solenoid?
Anyways, the attempts to charge and jump start seem to say it's not a battery problem. The slow crank followed by no crank makes me think it's not a ignition switch/neutral switch problem. Check your cables, I've seem before where the ground cable broke off at the terminal where it bolts to the engine block, but stayed in place so it looked good visually. But my guess is either the solenoid or starter is bad.
Was it running before, and just stopped cranking? If it's never been started, see if you can program the new keys into the PATS system to make sure there's not a problem.
In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :
The shop reports they are putting in a starter.
Hey Pete, what are book hours for a starter?
2006 F-250 rwd w/ 5.4L
The truck is back. Starter.
I had a Monday appt. I had AAA deliver it to the shop on Sunday. By 10am Monday they were reporting back to me it needed a starter. By 3:30, they were calling that the truck was ready. At 4:30 I picked it up. I can't be unhappy with that turn around service.
I had never been to this shop before but it came well recommended by 3 separate sources. The fact that I had to wait nearly a week for an appointment should say something good about them too. Their shop labor rate is $100. This starter job was 1.3hr = $130. The starter is a AC Delco. Rock Auto lists it for $101.79. The shop charged me $201.88 for the same part. That jives with the the common practice of doubling-ish the price of parts.
I miss my old shop that I sent all my work to. Last year, right before Covid the #1 mechanic (not owner) left to work for a huge/national/fortune 500 garbage truck company where he works on diesels and pick ups. Real health benefits and a better wage with steady income. Rather than continue to work there without #1, the #2 mechanic retired (he was old enough to.) This left the shop with just mechanic #3 who really isn't qualified to do work without #1 supervising/guiding/checking on him. These guys helped with my fleet and the flip cars that I go through. I had a sweet deal of $75 hr rate (low) even on parts that I sourced myself. Sure, no warranty for work on my parts but for most things and certainly flips, that was fine with me.
I need to find another "favorite shop" but I'm not sure the one I used today will be that shop. I don't know. They aren't the cheapest but they turned the work quickly, promptly and accurately.
I had never noticed that the starter turned slow. It always turned as it always had...until it didn't. This starter has a different pitch/sound when starting and seems to come on with more authority.
Starters go, especially on Mod motors.
I had one die at 112k on a 4.6 and one die at 85k on a 5.4. The one on the 5.4L died while it was sitting idle in the shop waiting for a steering part. The shop called me once the part came in and said it wouldn't start. I thought they were just trying to sell me on something so I drove over to look. The whole starter was generally rusted and the lug for the battery cable fell off in my hand while I was brushing away some white crusty stuff... so yeah, I believed them.
You get used to a slowly dying starter. You don't notice it getting slower over years of use, then you finally replace it and it sounds like a hi-torque racing starter. Been there.
