californiamilleghia said:
is there a master list of cars that have ADAS , and is there a way to test ASAS if your were buying a used car ?
There's no way to test a system for being "in spec" short of just calibrating it in a lot of cases. If you do all the setup to perform the check, you've basically done all the work needed to actually do the calibration.
Generally speaking, when it comes to front-facing cameras (near the rearview mirror), those typically just need adjusted when the glass is removed and reinstalled. GM, Honda, and Subaru off the top of my head have additional requirements that they be calibrated depending on the type of collision/severity. Subaru the strictest requiring after all collisions regardless of severity, and GM close behind depending on how you(or your insurance company) reads their position statement. Honda requires with structural damage which includes either of the bumper beams being damaged, the door intrusion beams being damaged, or any non-bolt-on part of the unibody. So if you're welding on the unibody, it's getting calibrated. They all required if the module is removed from the windshield or the windshield removed from the vehicle, which is the same stance most other manufacturers take.
You need to look at the exact wording for the exact year make and model vehicle in question for most. Plus look at any applicable position statements or collision repair bulletins.
For radar, If it's a system that requires static alignment, then most of the time is spent setting up the target and finding center line of the vehicle. Once you have the target set down, it's literally a 2-minute procedure in most cases and then you're done.
Blindspot monitors usually do not require anything unless they are physically damaged or they're mounting areas or damaged assuming they are body mounted. Hyundai and Kia have the strictest requirements where they need to have angle checks done (if on the body), and then the dynamic alignment performed while driving (whether body or bumper mounted). Toyota is pretty much the only other company that has an angle check procedure, plus a static aiming shooting at a target after the bumper is back on. Some manufacturers like Mazda have an aiming procedure, but no angle references to check before the bumper goes back on. So as a result, you shoot the radar and hope that the bumper doesn't have to come back off. Other than those three, for the most part there are no specifications. Best rule of thumb is if it is body mounted, you check the vertical and horizontal angle of a known good sensor assuming both sides aren't wrecked.
360 and backup cameras on most cars are not super exact, despite having pretty complicated procedures to aim them. Nissan is probably the worst looking in my opinion, as far as the mesh from one camera to the next goes. What's pretty nice is the newest GM trucks do they calibration every time you turn them on, so there is no real requirement to do anything even after replacement.
As far as checking things if you are buying a used car, you would probably want to budget $600-1000 for a Honda loaded with FFC and radar to be calibrated.
Honda radar will give a degree reading of how far it's in/out of spec during the aiming procedure since you tweak it mechanically (on the low center mounted type).
In a more practical sense, your best bet for radar is probably just test driving the car in as many strange driving scenarios as possible. In particular going under bridges, up and down hills (which even some when calibrated correctly will slow down if it's driving downhill before it goes back uphill quickly just FYI), down country roads with trees and mailboxes nearby, in traffic on the highway, and down winding roads with oncoming traffic in the opposite lane.
For the front facing camera, turn on the lane keep assist or lane watch warning, etc and slowly drive over the line on a straight road that has good lighting and very visible lines and just take mental note of how close you can get to the line before the things start beeping. Most are pretty decent when calibrated, except some very early Hyundai ones which suck no matter what. They get calibrated with a stupid suction cup thing stuck to the hood. Newer ones get calibrated while driving once you put it into a dynamic learn mode, or with a large target statically a specific distance in front of the car, which is far more accurate.
Blind spots and 360 cams are easy enough to drive and just verify proper function. Plus they won't do any goofy stuff like slamming on the brakes or force the steering wheel left or right while driving so the risk isn't near as bad if those are off.
As far as identifying cars with these features, the cameras are a dead giveaway being behind the rearview mirror for the forward facing camera. If you have 360 cameras there will be one under each mirror, one in the center of the front grill, and one on the back hatch. Radar is sometimes obvious and sometimes not. Nissan has it completely hidden in a lot of applications. You can almost always find out whether it has it or not by going through the instrument cluster and seeing if there is any kind of collision avoidance or auto cruise control features. Subaru is the only company that uses a camera only system for the auto cruise control, everyone else has radar. GM uses a lot of FFC but very few radars for collision avoidance. Unfortunately once again it just depends on what kind of vehicle you're looking at to give an exact answer.
It's roughly aimed a bit over 1ft left and bit less than 1ft down for every 10ft in front of the car at that level of misalignment.
