I did some work to the 5 this week as well. Wife hit a giant bolt and blew out a tire. The tire was too far damaged so Discount was going to replace it. The Kumho 4Xs had 35k on them and the inner tread was getting pretty thin so I had them give the cost of the tire as credit toward new tires. I went with 215/50R17 Yokohama YK580s, the extra width should help with my wife's affinity for curbs. I thought it would look like the van had balloon tires on it but it actually looks just right.
I also installed Energy Suspension rear trailing arm bushings and that job sucks. Drill out the old bushing, remove all the rubber from the metal shell still in the arm and from the pin. I used a brass cup brush on my drill, others have used a torch but my MAPP gas wasn't hot enough and you're right next to the gas tank. Install the new bushing with grease then press the pin in with a C-clamp. The neighbor kids will learn new words while you're pressing in the pin.
The tires and bushings reduced the shaking of the back seats quite a bit. The bushings seem to have raised the rear a bit and tightened up the handling. I'm hoping they'll do a better job of controlling the toe and camber changes that wear out the back tires.
Edit-
Had it aligned today. The rear camber is -1.5 on both sides as is the front. They set the total toe at 1/16 in front and either 1/32 or 1/16 in the back (can't remember right now).
In the middle of the installation of H&Rs and a JBR rear sway bar. Kid time, then Ohio State game then back to the garage.
Just replaced the rear brake rotors and pads. It wasn't a bad job, but it did require the obligatory trip to the parts store because it required a tool I don't have - a 7mm Allen key. I rented a brake caliper tool, because the rear calipers must be rotated to compress.
I was going to do the rear shocks too, but those also require a socket I don't own - a 12mm deep socket.
My rear suspension is squeaking now, probably needs bushings, right? Sway bar?
Mine has all new bushings, all lubricated and it still squeaks. Very annoying.
Mine doesn't squeak. Maybe all my bushing material is gone and so it's just metal on metal grinding? My front end does make noise though 
I took the roof rack off yesterday. It's made no discernible difference to the wind noise while driving.
Does anyone have a hitch mounted? I am debating adding one for a bike rack.
I did front rotors and pads today. It went well, though the 5 uses a pad that clips into the piston on the inboard side, which made things a little more trouble. Compressing the piston a little prior to unmounting the caliper made it an easier job.
I just bought those stupid roof rail covers for when my rack is off. Part# GJ6A-50-5A1
I also got a new lock actuator for the passenger, thanks to the link on this thread.
At 52,000 miles my 2nd gear synchro needs replaced. Luckily under warranty but it still stinks. Otherwise my second favorite DD yet.
In reply to chandlerGTi:
Darnit! I was thinking of swapping out my 5-speed for the 6-speed you have, but it sounds like it's not as reliable.
Not sure; we went through the Mazda VIN search and this is the only 6spd showing a warranty for synchros. Probably not a lot out there with biggish miles yet though. The 5spd is known for the same thing in the 60k mile range though.
Oh, hey, good news then! Used transmissions seem to be cheap from the insurance wreckers, so the 6MT upgrade looked like a good idea to me on paper if/when my clutch came due.
It ended up having the 1 and 2 synchros and the 2nd gear replaced. Nice to have a crisp trans again for sure.
Must be a sign. I was searching them on craigslist today. I'm shocked at how cheap the 1st gens are getting. Happy I didn't buy one new! 
We'll more than likely grab one in the next couple months. Are any of you guys driving slushboxes? Happy/unhappy with them?
Anybody else done brakes? I replaced the rotors and pads and can't get the dang things to stop making noise. It's mostly a humming sound that goes away when I apply the brakes slightly, like a caliper is not releasing entirely.
In reply to bastomatic:
I'm ordering up a complete upgrade package from Rob's Rod Shop (GRM advertiser) tomorrow. Film and details at 11!
poopshovel wrote:
Must be a sign. I was searching them on craigslist today. I'm shocked at how cheap the 1st gens are getting. Happy I didn't buy one new! We'll more than likely grab one in the next couple months. Are any of you guys driving slushboxes? Happy/unhappy with them?
i have two friends with slushbox 1st-gen M5's. while they lament the lack of tire-frying clutch dumps, they are generally happy and have had no trans-related issues. i have asked them for more detailed feedback and will forward their experiences.
OK, here's what i got from my peoples:
vehicle 1
YEAR? 2007 Grand Touring
ODO? 78K
Any Trans Issues?
No reliability issues. Dealer did the trans flush at 30K. At 60K, he said trans fluid still looked good and there was no need for further flushing.
I have the 4-speed. I think they went to 5-speed for 2008 model year. I wish I had the extra cog, but at least they had the good sense to provide the manumatic option. With low power/weight and 4-speed auto, there are times when you really need to pick your own gear, especially in traffic.
Fuel Economy (SWAG ok)?
Averaging 26.5mpg summer, 24 winter (with Blizzaks).
vehicle 2
• 2007 M5 Touring (4-speed auto, cloth interior, auto hvac, sunroof, dark tint, conti extreme contact dws, k&n filter, go fast Superchips stickers)
• 79,500
• Zero trans issues – no flushes, no fills, just hard drivin’
• 22 MPG combined w/ spirited driving
On a related note I do have a broken driver door power lock so I have to use the key. The check engine light is on for the coolant temp. It needs a glycol flush/fill. And the rear door handles are getting lazy – the springs are tired and/or they need lube to return home after pulling the doors open. All in all its still an awesome car as much of these issues are quick fixes if I cared to address them.
Wife's is a '10 model bought new and now all of 23k miles on it. Zero issues with trans or anything else, except that the factory tires were crap resulting in quick wear and loud road noise. Issue resolved by Kuhmo Platinums.
Matt B
SuperDork
6/21/13 2:12 p.m.
Javelin wrote:
In reply to bastomatic:
I'm ordering up a complete upgrade package from Rob's Rod Shop (GRM advertiser) tomorrow. Film and details at 11!
Looking forward to your update on this. My rear brakes need doing.
Wait.. are you upgrading calipers and disc size or just discs-n-pads?
In reply to Matt B:
There's no need to upgrade discs or calipers in the rear, they're the biggest placed on this chassis family (3/EuroFocus/C30/5/etc). The fronts you can upgrade to the MS3 units, but I don't know if it's worth it.
The kit I bought is available from Rob's Rod Shop (check the Old School issue of GRM for his ads!) under part # K4494. It consists of actual high quality rotors that are drilled, slotted, and zinced (all 4) and pads for the front and back with a pretty aggressive ceramic Z16 compound.
FYI - This is the exact brake upgrade package/manufacturer I installed on the 3800+ Lb P71 and then took 3 track days with zero issues (in fact, those brakes are still on that car, now in Florida and some 6 years and 60K miles older).
I'll post up pics/info when they come in and I install them (along with a fluid flush and maybe some SS hoses).
Poopy, keep in touch. My wife is thinking about making us a two-Volt household which would mean parting with the 5. Hers is a Sport with 58k, auto, Sirius, and the usual Sport accouterments. She's basically wanting to make a decision by the time school start again as to whether or not she wants a car payment again, or whether to keep the 5 and drive it into the ground. Sounds like we have similar timetables.
jg
Ladies & Gentlemen, I present to you, the first ever set of of PowerStop performance rotors for the Mazda5!
The fronts are the same as the 3 and have been available forever from many different manufacturers. The rears, however, are totally unique to the 5 and are also the largest rotors used on this platform. PowerStop decided to be the first one to finally jump in and make an upgraded rotor.
The slots are cast in and the holes are drilled and chamfered. These are real rotors, not show pieces. I used the same brand on the P71 for multiple track days with excellent results. Note that the rotors are zinc plated as well.
You may also notice some other changes. Gotta live up to the Falcon name slowly but surely. 
