Pretty sure that would have been an option, look at the option code sticker or do a vin lookup. From a quick google it looks like option code 498 "Without model designation on rear end".
Pretty sure that would have been an option, look at the option code sticker or do a vin lookup. From a quick google it looks like option code 498 "Without model designation on rear end".
Hmm, good question. I like it, but not sure why it came that way. Here are the option mine shows: 396: 17" 996 Carrera-look twist-spoke wheels, front 7" with 205/50 tyres, rear 8.5" with 255/40 tyres, 424: CD compartment, 454: cruise control, 490: Sound system (6 speakers), 502: Produced at Valmet plant in Uusikaupunki, Finland, 535: Alarm, 551: wind deflector, 584: storage box, 696: CD-radio Becker Porsche CDR-220- Currently inop!
I put in a new cabin air filter today (easiest swap in any car that I have owned) and noticed this breather tube laying loose in the compartment. I wasn't able to immediately place where it belongs. Please let me know if you have any ideas
Battery vent tube.
In reply to AAZCD (Forum Supporter) :
Thanks for your help! Mine has a newer AGM battery, but I will find a better place for it than where it was left. I sent you a message regarding your part-outs and it bounced back. Send me a PM with an email that works for you and I will try again.
I just sent a message. For some reason forum messages to my Gmail address don't always go through.
mxandcx5 said:Hmm, good question. I like it, but not sure why it came that way.
It's not uncommon for people to debadge these cars. My cayman was ordered without it, then was added back at some point (I think with a slightly incorrect badge) and then I re-removed it along with the "PORSCHE" lettering.
First Mod: 997/987 Shifter from a 2006 Boxster. $130 off eBay plus $20 for shift cable lock bridge (piece of mind). Shift ngagement is greatly improved, slightly shorter throws and it feels much more precise overall. A win for the budget DIY Boxster, oil and trans fluid on the docket for tomorrow. (I paid more for a Mazdaspeed Accessory short shifter for my '07 Mazda 3 and this install was just as easy, if not more so on Boxster.)
Oil change went well, super easy to access. One of the easiest/least messy changes ever, but also one of the most expensive taking 9 quarts and $20 NAPA gold filter. I took 5 minutes to cut open the filter afterwards and the pleats looked great!
My attempts to drain & fill the trans oil were foiled by not having the proper triple square socket. The socket I ordered from NAPA did not have a hollow center, so I ordered a triple square set off Amazon for $18 and will get it done next weekend. It wasn't hard, but it was def the most time consuming attempt to reach the trans fill/drain plugs on any car that I have owned
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I'm looking to refresh the suspension in the near future for the purpose of spirited back road driving. The current struts seem to be original based on service records (23yrs & 144k!). I can get a pair of rear struts off a 987 Boxster MY 2011 w/30k miles for around $175 shipped. This is compared to new struts selling on RockAuto for $190 each, and then having to swap springs, mount etc. Any insight to the fit of 2011 rear struts on 1999 (both base models) or differences in characteristics? I tried look up spring rates, etc and didn't find much information, but I can't imagine the differences being huge- weight remained nearly the same.
Trans fluid change went well today and it was needed! I didn't spot this having been done in the past among the maintenance records. Normal metallic debris on magnetic drain plug, nothing shocking. The shift action on the shakedown afterwards was immensely better- this and the shifter have transformed the experience. I have never felt so much of a difference after changing the fluid in a car, so I'm glad it is finally taken care of. Top tip: I took a white clip off a bag of coffee and used it as my trans dipstick. It had perfect ridges on the back and worked much better than I imagine a paperclip would.
I spent a lot of time under the car wiping down all the grime on the engine so that next time I have it in the air I can tell what leaks are fresh and need to be taken car of. So far no spots on my garage floor after a month plus and same for where it was kept parked in the previous owners garage. Two things I think that will need to be addressed: Spark plug tubes (and plugs) & right side cam solenoid seal. From what I'm reading I shouldn't need to drain any oil before changing the tubes or else I will be kicking myself for not having done it when I did the oil change.
I finally got to drive a boxster and I definitely liked it, I think I have missed the chance to get one I can afford though. I wouldn't really want to go over $7k, which back in January would have been no problem, but now anything less than $8k for one that's not even that nice is gone within a few minutes of the ad being posted. The one I drove was a bit rough and I didn't want to buy the first one I looked at but maybe I should have.
Hmm, I would be hesitant to get one that is a bit rough. I think a Porsche has the potential to bite you more from deferred maintenance than other makes. Always good to drive a few (even if they are out of your price range) for a point of reference and it makes it easier to know when you find the right one. I'm pretty patient and the hunt is all part of the fun!
By "rough" I mostly mean one with higher miles and worn paint and interior, which earlier this year you could get for ~$5500 or so, now those are $6500-7k and are gone within 15 minutes of being posted, and there are just sketchy used car dealers asking $9k and low mileage garaged ones for $15k. I will keep looking though but don't want one bad enough to pay $15k for one.
I found a running 2000 Boxster S for $5k I'm going to go look at, it may be too rough but I figure it can't hurt to look.
Tk8398 said:I found a running 2000 Boxster S for $5k I'm going to go look at, it may be too rough but I figure it can't hurt to look.
That may qualify for creation of yet another "world's cheapest Boxster" YouTube video that have been all the rage recently! I didn't realize until your comment; out of the dozen cars I have owned, my Boxster had the highest mileage- taking ownership at 143k. Generally I prefer maintained higher mileage cars to low mileage cars that haven't been given attention. I did come across this article when on the hunt that gave me piece of mind. Of course I told myself the stalwart reliability of the early 986 generation is what gave the Boxster a significant leg up over the Cayman in ratings.
https://www.caranddriver.com/news/a15340334/why-sports-cars-are-often-the-most-reliable-used-cars/
I actually bought a different one for $5900, it's far nicer than the $5k one but I'm not sure yet if it was a bad idea or not. Time will tell I suppose, but even if it turns out to be terrible and I have to sell it for nearly nothing it's not the end of the world. It's the 4th one I looked at and seemed like the best, but it needs a starter and I didn't find out until part way home that it runs slightly too warm.
Tk8398 said:I actually bought a different one for $5900, it's far nicer than the $5k one but I'm not sure yet if it was a bad idea or not. Time will tell I suppose, but even if it turns out to be terrible and I have to sell it for nearly nothing it's not the end of the world. It's the 4th one I looked at and seemed like the best, but it needs a starter and I didn't find out until part way home that it runs slightly too warm.
The Bosch starters are very robust unless water gets inside and corrodes them. Usually doing a partial disassembly, cleaning, and lubrication will have it working fine for another 10 years.
Running warm: Do the radiator fans run correctly? Are the radiator and condenser clogged with trash? Has the water pump ever been replaced?
In reply to AAZCD (Forum Supporter) :
Thanks, those are helpful. I guess I know where to start now.
Congrats on joining the cheap 986 club! From what I have read it is somewhat normal for the coolant temp gauge to read higher than 180 as it is does not accurately reflect the true running temperature. Mine is usually settles near the 12 o'clock position once reaching operational temp (even after cleaning rads/condensers, checked fans and cooling sys. work in maint. in records). Hopefully that is somewhat normal or else I am in the same boat.
My experience was that the gauge definitely moves around and it generally runs a bit hotter than you might expect. IIRC the fans don't come on at all until like 210* or somewhere around there. They like to be hot.
I read that it should be around 180 and is probably warmer than the gauge reads. Mine sits at the next mark and goes down a needle width on the freeway and up one driving slowly. I'm assuming there is a major issue that needs to be resolved before driving it unless absolutely necessary. I don't have to have it fixed by any particular date so I'm just going to go through and check everything and repair as necessary, but if it's still not right after that I think it will be time for it to be someone else's problem and try a different vehicle.
Today I was able to change out the fuel filter and spark plugs just before the car hit 144.5k miles. I made sure to replace the coil on plug boots, tubes, and o-rings as well. The spark plug maintenance was last completed almost 60k miles ago, so they were due- I would have to dig further to see if the fuel filter was ever done.
My fuel filter how-to: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5TfIdr6GcZA&t=25s
My spark plug parts and tube puller: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NPkTYTKgZVE
I installed a new shift knob by IXI Gears made for the 987/997 shifter assembly I have and it feels a good amount better than stock. I really like the retro etching on the aluminum knob and paired it with a custom stitched shift boot. The combined price came to less than some shift knobs out there. Overall the interior is coming along. I will replace the worn out components of the leather seats soon too and radio.
My IXI Gears shift knob review: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7GF86QPTxec&t=34s
My new shift boot: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gQerUuPBeys
I replaced the worn passenger side seat cushion with one from eBay and it looks much better! I realized afterwards that I may have been able to replace the cushion without removing the seat entirely and saved myself a trip to the store for an E12 socket. Either way the driver side seat bolster is my next target and then I will think about some cleaning and conditioning products. Lots of opinions out there, but I am leaning towards Color-Plus cleaner and soffner kit?
Seat removal: https://youtu.be/nspj4kh3Ix0
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