Yes, I was the one who stuffed the car into a snowbank on the ice road. (My name is Hans.)
You can make your own camber shims but you probably wouldn't have to work too hard to find some, either.
Sunroof leaks are often caused by clogged drain holes -- there are four, one at each corner. They fill with organic debris over time. Clean them with a small wire brush. I also pour about a gallon of fairly hot (but not scalding) water down them, too. Another possibility, while less likely, is that the roof has rusted and created a hole in the rubber seal; water creeps in as a result.
While you're at it, make sure the HVAC intake below the hood vent isn't full of leaves/pine needles -- if it clogs, water comes inside.
While you're at it, make sure the rear quarter window seals haven't shrunk and pulled away from the body at the corners. They probably have. Stretch them out again and re-attach with some 3M Trim Adhesive (black tube). An alternative is to cut the seal at the seam and graft in about 1 inch of donor seal; secure w/rubber cement.
The way I got 200 hp was to install a cold-start injector from an Audi, placed upstream of the throttle (not in the throttle, where it will actually fit. The switch is pressure-activated using an over-pressure (hobbes) switch from a Saab. I set it to turn on at about 13 or 14 psi.
The fifth injector gets fuel from the end of the rail, where I have removed the stock banjo bolt and fitted a double banjo bolt from a CIS Audi or VW (some Saabs had them, too), plus a stainless steel line from a CIS VW. My car has an unused cold start injector plug that I simply attached; yours may, too. Next, at the ECU, I found the pin that grounds the cold start injector if it had actually had one, and wired in the pressure switch so that at the pre-set pressure, the switch closes, the current opens the injector. Crude? Yes, but it seems to work.
There's more. The 16V Turbo's came with a 2.5 bar regulator. If you get a 3.0 bar reg from any 86-90 non-turbo (NOT 91+), you'll get about 10% more fuel at WOT. It's a 1-dimensional fuel map at WOT, in open loop, relying only on the RPM signal, so the ECU has no idea that you're giving the engine the extra fuel. Fuel economy does not suffer, as the ECU can run the car in closed loop otherwise.
You'll need to modify the APC: http://web.inter.nl.net/users/turbo-team-europe/apc.htm
Also search old Saabnet posts. Use terms like "pots" "knock sensitity"
For timing, I took the vac/boost capsule off the distributor and bent down the stop piece that limits the amount of retard, then refitted it, pumped up the capsule to max pressure, and set the timing to 11BTDC, which is the max retard for this car. Meanwhile, because you've change the amount of total travel that the capsule arm can move, and hence, affect timing, you now have more off-boost advance, and better response. You want to shoot for 11 BTDC under pressure, and about 22*BTDC under vacuum.
Set your baseboost to 2/3s of yellow.
Make sure your throttle switch is good, and that the vacuum/boost canister on the dist. is good.