Duke
Duke MegaDork
12/6/17 8:29 a.m.

DD#1 has been having chronic trouble over the last 6+ months with a caliper sticking on the LF of her semi-trusty-and-not-too-rusty 2002 Impreza wagon.  She took it to a shoip that we reasonably trust for a braking issue and they replaced the LF for sticking.  I didn't know it, but apparently it still dragged.  They have replaced it at least once under warranty on the original replacement, but it still seems to drag after a while.

RF recently started emitting a loud POP under firm braking.  Seems to operate normally, and lighter braking doesn't cause it, even if you squeeze deep into the pedal.  Seems related to how quickly you press rather than how hard.  My initial thought is that the caliper needs to have its skids greased, but I'm not sure.  I played around with weight transfer without braking, and couldn't make it pop, so I assume it is not suspension bind.  Ball joints etc. seem fine, at least with the car on the ground.

Is this an issue with these?  It's the only Subaru we've owned for any length of time.  I do not know the brand of the part they used for the LF.

93gsxturbo
93gsxturbo Dork
12/6/17 10:32 a.m.

My 2003 WRX (gotta be similar, right?) has very firm and powerful brakes.  I did go through them when I bought the car and did Powerstop drilled/slotted rotors and pads all the way around, pulled the calipers apart and lubed all the sliders, and have the Legacy H6 brake upgrade (look into it, bolt on bigger rear rotors)

 

Anywho, there is a gotcha on the Subarus of that vintage that there are two variants of calipers/pads that were installed on those years for really no rhyme/reason.  My car has mismatched early and late calipers, early on the fronts and lates on the backs.  

Do a little reading and make sure all your calipers/pads/brackets match.  When in doubt, I would bin the whole mess, and reorder 4 loaded calipers and braided hoses.  Your life should greatly improve.  

sachilles
sachilles UltraDork
12/6/17 11:03 a.m.

Usually it's the sliders.

Go with a full "caliper with bracket".

The slides always jam up. Makes sure you have the silver metal things the pads slide on, and those are lubed.

Duke
Duke MegaDork
12/6/17 11:47 a.m.

Thanks, folks.

RA has a bunch of options, both new and reman.  Who do we like?  The car may or may not be sold in the next year.

sachilles
sachilles UltraDork
12/6/17 1:39 p.m.
Duke said:

Thanks, folks.

RA has a bunch of options, both new and reman.  Who do we like?  The car may or may not be sold in the next year.

If I'm honest....the cheapest one.

Especially if it's going away in a year.

As to your clunk......when I bought my 02 wrx used ages ago. The previous owner mention some sort of clunk in the rear. He went to the effort of changing the struts in the back in hopes of eliminating the noise.

I could randomly hear the noise. Come to find out when I did the rear brakes I found the culprit. Like just about everyone, you remove one bolt and "flip" the caliper up to service it. You then flip it down, and you should put the bolt back in. The mechanic had forgotten it. Worked just fine....but randomly when no pressure on the pads, the caliper could move and clunk on the caliper holder. Not sure how that escaped a pro mechanic....but it did. Worth making sure you have all your bolts in there.

fornetti14
fornetti14 GRM+ Memberand Dork
12/6/17 1:52 p.m.

I like the Tociko brand calipers but I'm not sure who is stocking them now.

We can get about a year or so out of the NAPA remans before they start to seize up AGAIN.  (2005 Forester with the dual piston caliper)  

I keep using them because I paid once 5 years ago and it was a lifetime warranty.

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