In reply to Trent :
And this might be true of the electric power steering pumps also. Have to admit that the 100 amp fuse on the Mini took me by surprise.
In reply to Trent :
And this might be true of the electric power steering pumps also. Have to admit that the 100 amp fuse on the Mini took me by surprise.
In reply to NOHOME :
small muffin fan .It's mounted in the front trunk .On 90 degree days city traffic motor/pump at 128 degrees .The trunk gets quite warm ,marginal ventilation .In an open environment probably would not need fan .I think the mini cooper problem is that pump is very close to exhaust whick cooks it .
NOHOME said:In reply to Trent :
And this might be true of the electric power steering pumps also. Have to admit that the 100 amp fuse on the Mini took me by surprise.
Easy enough to solve, just cut the power to the EPAS when the cranking circuit is engaged. I don't recall if you're using a Miata ignition switch, but if you are one of the switched circuits (HVAC, etc) does exactly this.
In reply to Keith Tanner :
That would make sense. I do have the factory wiring manual, so should be esy to suss out what circuit to tap.
Pete
Just look at the diagram for the switch itself. You want IG2 if memory serves.
Another thing to factor is that current draw is more or less proportional to system pressure, which will be a factor of how much steering effort you're putting in.
It's still a good idea to have it on a run-only terminal. Not sure about the Mini or Volvo units, but the XT6 unit favored by VW rallyists had a maintenance (no load) current in the 20-30 amp range. I would certainly hope that the more modern units draw less, but even 5-10 amps can be a lot when cranking.
IIRC, the XT6 had switches in the column so that the PS pump only had power when turning, so there was no draw when pointed straight.
Here is a link to a guy who hacked an Opel Corsa rack (GM, looks like it has Saturn equivalents) to have actual speed sensitive performance, rather than a rheostat.
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