Hi everyone. Today, I went and did a checkup on the Cutlass. The situation is bleak. It's running on 7 cylinders, has valve cover gaskets that are leaking oil all over the headers, has a leaky trans pan gasket, a leaky oil pan gasket, a rusted-through rear frame rail, a rusted-through rear bumper, random rust patches on the doors, speed holes in 2/4 wheel arches, a possible head gasket leak, and bad tires, plus who knows what else. I have about $1400 invested in it, including the cost of the car. I'm starting to think that I made a bad financial decision, and should cut my losses before this old car turns into a major headache. What would GRM do?
bgkast wrote:
DIY or cut bait.
At what point is it financially idiotic if I kept fixing it?
What motor is it? Why is it only runnning on 7 cylinders? If you can get it running right and leak free for a little bit of money, it might be time for a new direction. Donor for another g-body?
In reply to G_Body_Man:
If you view it as a learning experience and realize that knowledge is the only way your going to get any ROI out of it then there is no harm in proceeding.
If I let the money I was sinking into cars worry me I would have had a lot less experience/knowledge, I learn by doing.
Personally, I would try to limit total expenditure to 5k or under and do the best job you can of getting the old girl back on the road. Just realize you likely will not get that money back, but, if you DIY everything possible, the experience and knowledge you gain will pay dividends for the rest of your life.
DatsunS130 wrote:
What motor is it? Why is it only runnning on 7 cylinders? If you can get it running right and leak free for a little bit of money, it might be time for a new direction. Donor for another g-body?
305 Chevrolet V8. I don't know why it's running on 7 cylinders.
depends on the use of the car for me. i keep winter beaters under a grand all in just because i know there going to rust. if you could get it running correctly and not leaking for less then 2k doing it yourself it wouldnt be the end of the world. Ive had cars ive spent way too much on to keep on the road i just consider it a learning experience and cut my losses when i get rid of one!
I agree with Nick, you can learn a lot. We've all dumped money into a car, sometimes reckless. I think if you're realistic about the outcome and keep it mostly diy you'll be ok. I would find out what's up with the motor before proceeding.
What could you buy for what you would sell the Cutlass for?
What could you buy for what you would sell the Cutlass for that you know all the good and bad about?
914Driver wrote:
What could you buy for what you would sell the Cutlass for?
What could you buy for what you would sell the Cutlass for that you know all the good and bad about?
At this point, possibly a used lawnmower.
G_Body_Man wrote:
DatsunS130 wrote:
What motor is it? Why is it only runnning on 7 cylinders? If you can get it running right and leak free for a little bit of money, it might be time for a new direction. Donor for another g-body?
305 Chevrolet V8. I don't know why it's running on 7 cylinders.
305s from the 80s are notorious for cam lobes going flat, that may be your dead cylinder. With the other problems, I personally would, if you decide to keep the car, look for a good 350 long block. Old school SBCs are pretty darn cheap, at least cheaper than a rebuild on the 305.
I have nearly twenty grand in a Fairmont, so I'm probably not the best one to give advice. That said, if I could find a nice, clean replacement, I might consider ditching that one and starting over. Even if you get a clean car with a non-functioning drivetrain, you might be further ahead.
NOHOME
UltraDork
6/17/15 9:07 p.m.
G_Body_Man wrote:
Hi everyone. Today, I went and did a checkup on the Cutlass. The situation is bleak. It's running on 7 cylinders, has valve cover gaskets that are leaking oil all over the headers, has a leaky trans pan gasket, a leaky oil pan gasket, a rusted-through rear frame rail, a rusted-through rear bumper, random rust patches on the doors, speed holes in 2/4 wheel arches, a possible head gasket leak, and bad tires, plus who knows what else. I have about $1400 invested in it, including the cost of the car. I'm starting to think that I made a bad financial decision, and should cut my losses before this old car turns into a major headache. What would GRM do?
What you describe is a pretty tired Ontario car. I think that with a lot of time and some money, you can get it on the road. But don't fall in love with it because its not a good candidate for restoring.
If I were you, my first priority would be to figure how to get into the welding game so that you can deal with that bit yourself; now and going forward. That is the opportunity that I see knocking on your door, up to you if you can answer.
Rusted frame rail? If you are not a good welder start parting it Imho
I would keep it and try to fix it as cheap as possible. (I am in the same situation with my beetle project)
TRoglodyte wrote:
Rusted frame rail? If you are not a good welder start parting it Imho
My first three cars all had rusted frame rails, that's how I learned to weld. And the reason that I didn't panic when my 86 GMC1500 broke the frame off at the steering box mount, I knew how to fix it
81cpcamaro wrote:
G_Body_Man wrote:
DatsunS130 wrote:
What motor is it? Why is it only runnning on 7 cylinders? If you can get it running right and leak free for a little bit of money, it might be time for a new direction. Donor for another g-body?
305 Chevrolet V8. I don't know why it's running on 7 cylinders.
305s from the 80s are notorious for cam lobes going flat, that may be your dead cylinder. With the other problems, I personally would, if you decide to keep the car, look for a good 350 long block. Old school SBCs are pretty darn cheap, at least cheaper than a rebuild on the 305.
Ouch. If it's a worn cam lobe, I'm not sure what I would do.
NOHOME
UltraDork
6/18/15 7:50 a.m.
Perhaps you should start working on the learning curve. There are very basic steps for troubleshooting most engine running issues. I would think that you would want to start by learning those.
I always start with the basics. Fuel, compression,spark.
You must have fuel in the intake or it would not run.
Do a compression test. If too broke to buy a gauge, Canadian tire will lend you one. Grab a vacuum gauge while you are there.
Test the cylinder for spark.
If the lobe is toast, you should pretty much be able to see the difference in movement with the valve cover off. I bet it shows up with the vacuum test also, but you can google up the actual diagnosis method.
So what I am saying is to stop fixating on the total pile of problems and pick one thing to fix and solve that. Get some momentum going on the car. Fiberglass or pop rivet a door or fender patch, fix the engine, get the frame welded (I thought you had the frame welding figured out?)
It depends on how much time you have available to fix it. If you don't have a way of getting time to fix it - even in bite sized pieces like Tuna's truck - I'd cut my losses.
If you've got the time and expense to spare, feel like you would enjoy the process, and aren't already so mad at the car that you want to use it for thermite practice - it might make sense to revive it for the experience of reviving a car.
A worn cam lobe could either be an excuse for a cam swap or an engine swap, depending on your budget and the condition of the rest of the motor. Just don't go back with a stock cam in a stock motor. 
As a primo restoration project, such a car might not make sense.
As a semi rat-rod driver, it might be just fine. Embrace the rust, and let it be. Stabilize it if you wish. Frame rust, if it's not in a critical area can also be ignored.
A 305 is not an engine I would seek out, but I believe a 350 is a drop in swap (check that, I'm not a GM guy). And I do see 350's all over the place for a song. You can also drive on a V7 for quite a while.
Tires are tires, just a consumable item that all cars go through. Get a set of cheapies to just putter around on for the time.
If you're looking to learn about body repairs, well, you've a great mule to start on. Pick something and fix it.
Rust is a deal breaker, crush it.
MadScientistMatt wrote:
It depends on how much time you have available to fix it. If you don't have a way of getting time to fix it - even in bite sized pieces like Tuna's truck - I'd cut my losses.
I have just under 2 months, and not a lot of money to fix it. Maybe I should invest in something more reliable. I'm just tired of having to cross my fingers everytime I try and start it.
I priced out all the parts needed so far, and it comes to around $160. I figure I'll invest that, plus however much I need to get the rail welded in, and I'll be shipshape.
