I pulled this one out of the pile (Scalemates.com photo). I already had primed the body and I've built a couple other Monogram Mustangs so know what I'm getting into. There should be a special place in hell for any company that molds kits in yellow, though. My only concern is I hope the decals aren't too old/brittle.
I just ordered this, should have it by the middle of next week.
11GTCS said:I just ordered this, should have it by the middle of next week.
Snow plow shootout
Anyone have any tips on how to stop paint bleed to/from the exterior or the interior (headliner) when painting a model?
In reply to 67LS1 :
Never had it happen. I use Tamiya rattle cans a lot , but also use automotive acrylic lacquer with light gray primer with no issues.
In reply to solfly :
Heh, I see that now. Awesome!
I will be attempting to complete a kit I started during the pandemic but lost interest in. It needs body work redone and a repaint. Plus, I can't find many options for stuff in the scale I'll be working in. But I need to complete this one.
In reply to vwcorvette (Forum Supporter) :
What scale? I have some off scale oddities, like seats in 1/20th from Lancia Stratos.
In reply to TurnerX19 :
I like 1/20 scale corvettes. It's a weakness.
67LS1 said:Anyone have any tips on how to stop paint bleed to/from the exterior or the interior (headliner) when painting a model?
Can you give us a little more info? I'm not sure I understand the problem. Of course I haven't had my coffee, yet. Is the paint seeping under your tape or are you getting paint overspray in places where you don't want it?
I paint my interior headliner first, then mask all the openings before painting the exterior. I use regular blue painter's tape. Works fine for me.
Those Mobeus kits are reportedly really nice. I have one still shrink wrapped I need to get to but I'm not in the mood to tackle the two-tone I have planned for it.
In reply to ddavidv :
I read the reviews on Mobius kits and several on this specific one before I added it to the cart. One guy had completed pictures in his review and said it had great detail. We shall see.
I'm hoping to two tone it as Ranger packages usually were but I'll have to see what's available paint wise and see what the actual kit looks like body line wise. Hobby stores are pretty thin on the ground around me but there are a couple of chain "craft" stores nearby so I'll see what if anything they have. Otherwise, anyone have any experience using flaps store rattle cans on styrene?
In reply to 11GTCS :
Most rattle can like Rustoleum is chemically compatible, but the spray patterns are way to thick for us. Tamiya rattle can is best until you can airbrush. The latest Testors line has some good reviews, but I'm still way shy from previous experience.
Testors can eat a bag of donkey appendages. They will never get another dollar from me for their spray paint with nozzles that are wholly useless.
I use hardware store paints more often than not. I absolutely use the flat and semi gloss black as well as the white and grey primers. I find you need to stick mostly with the name brand paints and not the never-heard-of-it brands for best results. You should always use a primer coat to insure the color coat won't attack the plastic.
I've had problems with nozzles clogging so bought a bag of nozzles off Amazon. They have various spray patterns, so you can 'fix' those that you don't like.
Not sure if we'll take it apart to add details. Probably not ha ha
My first attempt in about 50 years... crude but it was fun to put together.
Started with this
Ended up with a prototype
Spent two days spray painting all my parts. Had a disaster of some level with the chassis; the generic paint I used did not like the primer. Sigh. Fortunately, it's just the underside of the chassis and another primer coat seems to have covered most of the crazing. The price tag on the 'bad' paint told me it came from Ollie's. So, word to the wise...don't buy no-name cans of paint from Ollie's.
In reply to gcurl :
Looks like Lotus 33. What scale?
In reply to bludroptop :
That came out glorious. The little dirt on the wheel opening, droopy tail pipe and abused looking right rear quarter are perfect at the end of a trip. I hope there is trash in the cabin. Is this kit still a separate roof and sides like the original 1960s 17 window? Revell never let the mold go, I haven't seen the Westfalia release up close.
In reply to BenB :
Seeping under the tape. But I've always painted the outside first. I'll try headliner first and see if that helps.
I've also never used primer so I'll try that too.
In reply to 67LS1 :
Seeping under the mask is a whole subject in itself. Tamiya's expensive masking tapes, note the plural, are great, and very targeted. For general masking a headliner/exterior interface, I can't remember masking one. I spray my exterior first, and hand brush the headliner and interior pillars. You get more control of texture with the hand brush and thickeners/dirt/fade etc.
I got some model bench time this weekend, so first an apology...The manufacturer of the replacement Ford Econobox bodies is MST....so the MST RS5000 continues, with primer. The body side of the engine room is close. Outside of the shell needs nothing beyond normal finishing, a beautiful mold, thanks Belkits! I wish I'd taken a photo of the under bonnet area as delivered, there was zero resemblance to the printed photo seen as background here. This is a combination of flat styrene sheet, Milliput thick terra cotta epoxy and Tamiya primers. Going through the photos for data I also realized this can only be made left hand drive, the steering column and the starter have a Newtonian conflict. Once again Belkits wins, the kit has all pieces for either left or right hook.
In reply to 67LS1 :
I use Washi tape that I get from Amazon. Craft stores like Michael's carry it in the scrapbooking section. It's not too expensive, is flexible, and seals well. I only use Tamiya tape to cover larger areas. If I need to mask around a compound curve, I cut 1-2 mm strips to mask the edges and fill in with bigger pieces. Works great when painting trim. Burnishing down the edges of the tape will help prevent leakage.
In reply to TurnerX19 :
More or less a 33. Originally designed to be a 1/8 print, I rescaled to 1/10 as an experiment. My son and I are working on designing 1/10 VW parts to model my Zink. I can imagine how much money I would have saved in model building if I'd had the resources he takes for granted 40 years ago.
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