AngryCorvair wrote: i never said they were cheap for him to buy, i only said they were the lightest OE caliper he could find.
Ahh I assumed he got them cheap since it was going on an his dirt track car. Most dirt racers around here put whatever they can on that's cheap because they get screwed up pretty fast.
Thanks for the link too!
i edited my last post. you can look at the drawing of a part by clicking the images tab, then scrolling your mouse over the drawing that pops up. they used to allow downloading pdf of drawings, but now that does not seem possible. right click while mousing over the image does nothing, at least for my non-computer-literate self. YMMV
dude, i totally figured something out:
sometimes i impress myself with figuring out in ten minutes what my 7-year-old could figure out in one minute.
^Ok nice, it has some good measurements in there. I'll be searching through that for days to come.
You realize once you have this brake problem solved, you're going to raise the ire of the F for turning a $2000 problem into a $200 problem Also, I may be available in a few weeks (sorry for the long lead, lots going on) to help mock up and tack a subframe. I'm thinking you're going to need Dave or someone with more structural welding experience than I to finish it but I should be able to help get you where you need to go. You're going to need a bunch of box tubing...
Raze wrote: You realize once you have this brake problem solved, you're going to raise the ire of the F for turning a $2000 problem into a $200 problem
Yes sir! I'll hope to have something figured out by then but I'll accept your offer and stockpile some metal over here and finish my template. I'll pay you in more than cajun food too!
On calipers: don't forget the Wilwoods etc. They are actually quite reasonably priced. Worth looking into.
Curmudgeon wrote: On calipers: don't forget the Wilwoods etc. They are actually quite reasonably priced. Worth looking into.
Not a bad idea given my strict size requirements.
Other news is money saved on rotors. Evaporust actually worked like a charm. Rotors have no scarring at all!
crankwalk wrote: Other news is money saved on rotors. Evaporust actually worked like a charm. Rotors have no scarring at all!
Dunno if you've ever used Evaporust before, but when I did, I forgot to protect the minty parts after their bath, and they rusted again almost immediately (though to a much lighter degree than before). If you haven't already, get some sort of protectant on those rotors!
Will do sir. Thanks for the tip
Back to the mounts for a bit. What do you guys think of this design? Obviously it's not done but I wanted to get your ideas. The little support brace on the left is 1 in. square stock and the two stacked bars are 1 1/4 x 24 inches and they connect to the other side of the frame as well. It looks identical on both sides. I'm going for this as the basic shape and then add supports to that (if the general consensus is that this idea isn't terrible.)
For the trans mounts I have 1 in. square steel just going for the mount tabs to the back of the frame.
Tacked up and in the process of adding more bracing.
I was thinking more on your engine mount cross-member, I was thinking more like this because you have the space, and it could be assembled out of the car, and then you could put large L-brackets under the lower edge of the truss, sitting on top of the frame, and either weld in place around the whole L-bracket, or bolt to the frame:
where the red L-brackets would be sitting on your frame rails, and the top red represents the actual engine mount (don't know if it's one or two):
I think the diff mount is good, but you're going to want to gusset the square tubing to the frame...
Oh nice. Like a toothpick bridge in school. I need to do some more measuring. I did get my fuel system in order today. I got a fuel cell and fuel pump from Summit Racing. I'll get some additional measurements and pictures tomorrow. Thanks for all the help everybody!
Walbro 255 and a 5 gallon RCI fuel cell. -6 an line from the cell to the pump and then fittings for the feed and return to do 3/8 rubber lines. I didn't have room for anything bigger up front like a 10 -15 gallon without going custon and this was expensive enough.
I have all the hardware to make it run now, just gotta hook it all up.
Quick question for you guys, all the new fuel system stuff is setup for 3/8 and the stock stuff is 5/16. So should I try to find adapters to run 5/16 hose or just tighten 3/8 line on there with a barb like this: http://www.suremarineservice.com/FIT-033.aspx?gclid=CNn9wtTgtrUCFYV_QgodiwcADA
In reply to crankwalk:
I would not use barb fittings on a fuel system under any real pressure. I would get an reducer adapter that screws in both sides...
Also, some WRX knowledge needed. From my fuel system having one feed, whats the best way to get it to split for both feeds based on what I already have?
Thanks!
Alrighty, as far as I know I have all essential wiring hooked up except the fuel system. I didn't have a battery charged quite enough so I grabbed some jumper cables and tried to just bump the starter with pins acting as a switch in the ignition harness. No go. I still need to go through everything with a test light and trace the ignition wires and make sure nothing is interrupted.
Revisting the fuel system, I may have been over thinking the 2 inlets and 1 return situation. Since I have the stock fuel filter on there, it looks like I just need to run 1 line into the fuel filter and have on return off the FPR. The part where it splits for the 2 rails I haven't touched since its under the intake manifold.
This is my favorite build thread (after my own ;)). I dread working on the wiring for my own project. Keep at it!
I love this thread.
I'm not nuts about barb fittings under pressure either. I would prefer the beaded type, like on this filter:
or something with AN fittings. If you do go with a clampable hose fitting, Goodyear makes a high pressure hose with a blue liner that's the best I have ever used.
^Thanks for the tip. I assume the blue lining may be for ethanol protection for pump gas now?
I think so, but don't know for sure. It lasts a helluva lot better than the older all black stuff, though.
Jay did you ever get a hold of a 110V welder? If not I'm thinking a day of measuring, cutting and getting everything setup, worst case bring it all back down to my place to weld it up for the mount, whatcha think?
Raze wrote: Jay did you ever get a hold of a 110V welder? If not I'm thinking a day of measuring, cutting and getting everything setup, worst case bring it all back down to my place to weld it up for the mount, whatcha think?
Yes and no, I have a buddy that said "Hey I have a little campbell hausfield 110v mig that I don't use and you can just have it" So I could go pick it up but I'm not sure what condition it is in. It's tacked in right now and I'd like to get it maybe on a lift somewhere to weld it better. I think the mount that is on there will work I just need to keep adding bracing and weld those bits in.
I'm off this friday- sun so I'm going to play with it some more. I definitely appreciate the addtional help figuring these things out!
You'll need to log in to post.
