Also got a new Optima Yellow Top battery and put it in to run the car but it has a no start condition. So started going over wiring to figure out what isnt getting power. We have power through the start relay so i believe its the clutch pedal position switch but didnt have enough time to get all the way in there.
Bit by bit, keep it going!
sleepyhead the buffalo said:Bit by bit, keep it going!
Man we are trying. So much going on and not a ton of time. But yes, slowly and surely we are getting it done. Hope to spend a good amount of time this sunday on it(if my wife doesnt kill me).
We have a no start condition. Chilton manual wiring diagram is garbage and the wire colors do not correspond. I believe we have an open between the starter relay and the clutch pedal position sensor. I hear the relay in the engine compartment click when the ignition is cycled so i have power through the ignition, to the starter relay but no ground after that.
So i ordered the Hyundai EVTM and will hopefully get it started again once i figure out the connectors and wire colors.
Welp, the guys have given up and the "team" has basically disbanded. No one has the time anymore to finish this car besides me. The shop space is disappearing soon(shop is getting a few upgrades so the space we were using is going to be a bathroom) so it will have to be stored outside under a 10x20 auto tent and pushed into the other bays of the shop.
Putting the call out for anyone who would like to come help finish this thing and get it on course with me? Needs a bit of wiring(cutoff switch and to find the open/no start condition), fire suppression system, lexan window cutting/installing.
Please PM me through the board. Any help and it will secure you seat time at events.
I wish y'all were closer.
Anyone know of a wiring guru in the Washington DC area?
kevinatfms said:Anyone know of a wiring guru in the Washington DC area?
not offhand, and unfortunately I won't be in the area until next summer. not that I'm a guru... but I can work the 'beep' function on a multimeter. 
I'm not terribly far away ( work in Falls Church and live in Culpeper) and I'm a fair electrician. I just don't know when I can get out your way to possibly lend a hand, but assuming Cov-19 BS calms down a little more, I can if the help is still needed.
In reply to JesseWolfe :
Ill let you know the minute the COVID is up. I think ive got 99% of it down just need some fresher eyes on the last little bit.
Welp, handed the car over to the specialists at Motorsports Solutions in Manassas. Just going to have them finish whats left and get this thing on track. They are going to finish the electrical stuff(cutoff, battery relocation, find the damn no-start issue) since i am just blind to it at this point.
More updates to come when it comes back to me.
Motorsports Solutions is currently still working on the car. They got it back running though so that is a HUGE plus.
On another note, Bobzilla was so generous by offering up his Tiburon GT front calipers. Paired with a set of 2004 Sonata front rotors and we have a cheap big brake kit. Just ordered the rotors and a set of Hawk HP+ pads to pair up with everything.
In the rear, a disc conversion is possible by souring parts from the Tiburon and Elantra GT's. So far i have found knuckles for under $100, ordered a set of wheel bearings/hubs and hub nuts. Still looking for calipers before i plunk down the change on a Powerstop rear caliper kit since its $215.00 and doesnt include pads. Either way, rear disc conversion is going to happen. Will grab some Stoptech lines for the rear also to complement the braided lines up front.
One note on the wheel bearings: Timken bearings are made in South Korea from the same location as the oe ones. I found that out recently. They are worth the extra $20.
Im hoping the calipers made it yesterday?
In reply to bobzilla :
Ordered two sets of bearings for the rear along with two sets of rear hub nuts.
Didnt get the calipers yet but our mailman/UPS/Fedex guys are known to scan the package and say they have delivered it so they can knock off early for the day(its a regular occurance in our neighborhood). Ill be home around 2ish today and check to see if they were dropped off on the morning run. Thanks again, saved us a ton of headache with getting calipers and rebuilding them or buying them new. Now to figure out a pad compound for track events that will work for our weight/tire setup - Hawk Blues? EBC Orange? Porterfield R4's?
Thanks again and if you're ever in the area there is always seat time available.
Having the blues on Tubey with the XG calipers/rotors was really overkill. I say blues.
For endurance racing brakes, do not pass go, do not collect $200, just call porterfield and order Raybestos ST43. I've been racing Lemons for 10 years and tried so many brakes and have friends who have tried more, we all end up with these in the end. Zero rotor wear, never ever faded, and we get 3+ races out of a set on a fast car. They are easy to modulate and don't even dust that badly. Nothing else comes close.
In reply to Sonic :
They dont make them.
There are Hawk Blues for $128, R4-E are $235, R4-1 for $235 and R4 for $235. Those are on the shelf and ready for shipment.
Also all the EBC offerings and Hawk did have the HP+ but i cant seem to find the part number anymore.
So, get them custom made(im assuming this will be $300+ if i call Porterfield)? Or will the R4-E work?
Sonic said:For endurance racing brakes, do not pass go, do not collect $200, just call porterfield and order Raybestos ST43. I've been racing Lemons for 10 years and tried so many brakes and have friends who have tried more, we all end up with these in the end. Zero rotor wear, never ever faded, and we get 3+ races out of a set on a fast car. They are easy to modulate and don't even dust that badly. Nothing else comes close.
This is the truth. Buy once, cry once.
In reply to kevinatfms :
They do make them, you just have to call. We have ordered them for Oldsmobile Bravada calipers, for example. They will cut backing plates to size or can put the friction material on a backing plate you provide. I think they are usually $230 ish, but you save in the long run based on the exceptional life and lack of rotor wear.
The hawks either chew up rotors hard and wear more quickly then the ST43 (blue, black), or are not up to the task for racing (HP+, tried them).
R4e are decent, we run them in the rear to balance our car out. They do wear significantly faster, enough to negate the price advantage.
Strangely, I have the opposite view as sonic.
C ant stand the porterfield. To me, they have no feel. Tried them a few times.
We run hawk blues (9012). Rotors last 5 or 6 races (30$ a piece) before I toss them. Pads last about 28 hours of racing. We run blue in the front and hp + in the rear. 180 whp rx7 that weighs about 2650#.
The one pad I LOVE but can't stomach the price to get them made is the pfc08.
Pfc08 Lasts forever. Feels great. Won't hurt rotors any more than any other pad.
Rear knuckles, hubs, nuts, calipers, rotors and pads came in.
Started to get everything assembled and found out i forgot to order the washers and dust caps for the rear hubs. So quick search on a local dealer parts site and ordered them - $15 for 2 dust caps and 2 washers. Should be here early next week.
This was easy to source and quite cheap. A set of custom made racing brake shoes were more expensive than the entire rear disc conversion. And the conversion is using all brand new parts. This will also fit under the 15" wheels we currently are running.
Here is nearly everything on the bench.
Here she is! Motorsports Solutions did a ridiculously good job at cleaning it up and finishing the last items.
Looks good! When do you plan to get it out on track?
Sonic said:Looks good! When do you plan to get it out on track?
The 15th for a Trackcross. Will have video to post using my go-pro.
This car looks like fun. What engine is in it again?
It doesn't look like you have a dashbar as part of the cage. You will need one for champcar in 2021.
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