We are in full agreement on the path forward then, The dream does not die, it just launches at an earlier milestone. The deliverable is a rust free safe and reliable pickup truck.
Was going to second the SPI. Eastwood would be the other option if you want to save a bit of $$ but I can not personally vouch for it, just watched a lot of their videos.
I have not shot the SPI yet, but it was recommended enough that I purchased it. Their Tech support is second to none. Text or call any time, they answer. I will likely use their paint when the time comes.
In reply to NOHOME :
For the time being, this means the following questions are in play:
1: Do I rebuild the caliper castings I have or buy new ones?
2: Do I rebuild or replace the original master even though it worked fine when I drove it last years and years ago?
3: What bolt is used to hold the column to the intermediate shaft?
4: What fittings and diameters do I need for making brake lines? What bender and flaring tool to buy which won't break the bank?
5: What brake bias adjuster can I get which doesn't look ridiculous? The OEM peice looks terrible and it makes the brake lines really annoying and complicated.
In reply to tuna55 :
3:
Tuna: "Hey steering-column-rebuilder-Randy, what bolt is used on that clampie-do on the end of my intermediate shaft?"
Steering-column-rebuilder-Randy: "It's weird. It looks like this [picture]"
Tuna: "Oh ick. It's like a carriage bolt, but not a carriage bolt. LMC sells them, no biggie"
Steering-column-rebuilder-Randy: "No problem, I'll put this one in the mail for you today"
WOW
tuna55 said:In reply to NOHOME :
For the time being, this means the following questions are in play:
1: Do I rebuild the caliper castings I have or buy new ones?
2: Do I rebuild or replace the original master even though it worked fine when I drove it last years and years ago?
3: What bolt is used to hold the column to the intermediate shaft?
4: What fittings and diameters do I need for making brake lines? What bender and flaring tool to buy which won't break the bank?
5: What brake bias adjuster can I get which doesn't look ridiculous? The OEM peice looks terrible and it makes the brake lines really annoying and complicated.
I would buy the master if possible. Calipers are cheap and easy to rebuild if they are not pitted. Cleaning the casting might be the hardest part if you dont have a sandblaster.
Brake lines are most likely 3/16" Choice is to buy a coil of tube and a bunch of fittings, or buy premade and cut-replace one end to suit. Pre-made come as straight pieces as long as 8' long. Will have the fittings.
Parts store will lend a pipe flaring tool. Mine does. I bought a good tool and it was like $40 looks just like the cheap ones but it works, Probably have a bender to loan out also.
Bias stuff I have no idea.
NOHOME said:tuna55 said:In reply to NOHOME :
For the time being, this means the following questions are in play:
1: Do I rebuild the caliper castings I have or buy new ones?
2: Do I rebuild or replace the original master even though it worked fine when I drove it last years and years ago?
3: What bolt is used to hold the column to the intermediate shaft?
4: What fittings and diameters do I need for making brake lines? What bender and flaring tool to buy which won't break the bank?
5: What brake bias adjuster can I get which doesn't look ridiculous? The OEM peice looks terrible and it makes the brake lines really annoying and complicated.
I would buy the master if possible. Calipers are cheap and easy to rebuild if they are not pitted. Cleaning the casting might be the hardest part if you dont have a sandblaster.
Brake lines are most likely 3/16" Choice is to buy a coil of tube and a bunch of fittings, or buy premade and cut-replace one end to suit. Pre-made come as straight pieces as long as 8' long. Will have the fittings.
Parts store will lend a pipe flaring tool. Mine does. I bought a good tool and it was like $40 looks just like the cheap ones but it works, Probably have a bender to loan out also.
Bias stuff I have no idea.
I am planning on bringing my grungy calipers to work to use the sandblaster Monday after cleaning them a bit over the weekend.
Apparently the line sizes differ
I'm getting a headache thinking about it. This is starting to sound better and better.
https://www.inlinetube.com/products/ctb7202l
Busy weekend. All I did was to clean the parts out of the bed of the truck, clean up some odds and ends, wirebrush the calipers, and take a brief inventory of the parts I already purchased.
Someone call me in 2010 and explain that maybe buying nice tailight lenses and pedals isn't the best choice.
Budget says I can do brakes in September. Woohoo!
So, what's stopping you?
(guffah guffah guffaw)
SkinnyG (Forum Supporter) said:So, what's stopping you?
(guffah guffah guffaw)
Ha!
Fiscal September doesn't start until the 6th for me.
Planning on:
Rotors and front bearings
Pads, sliders and bushings
Lines and hoses all around
New master cylinder (still up for debate. The only one worked fine and is still full)
New wheel cylinders and shoes
I also need a throttle return spring
Then the next decision comes to wiring. Spending $$$ to rewire the whole thing is attractive, but then again, it mostly worked fine before I wrecked somnething when taking the bed off. I may just leave it and figure out how to do the underhood stuff cleaner than GM did. As it is, it ought to be enough to get it started and moving.
You need two throttle return springs, and it's a good idea to have them pull in the opposite direction that the throttle pulls - it's easier on the shaft bushings in the carb.
I've looked into a wiring kit for my '61. What I want is about $1000. That's going to have to spread the project out a bit more. As is the cost of air ride. And paint.
Pricey hobby, eh?
Friend of mine has used about 6 of these so far and found them for as little as $60. How neat they go in is up to you, but they do work and are often better than the 50 year old stuff in a classic car.
If the original wiring can be revived, that would be my choice. I like to be able to service things using factory manuals and component locations when possible. If you need additional wire to do repairs, the factory has been using the same colors for ever, and used/scrap/donor harnesses are the place to shop for that stuff.
NOHOME said:Friend of mine has used about 6 of these so far and found them for as little as $60. How neat they go in is up to you, but they do work and are often better than the 50 year old stuff in a classic car.
If the original wiring can be revived, that would be my choice. I like to be able to service things using factory manuals and component locations when possible. If you need additional wire to do repairs, the factory has been using the same colors for ever, and used/scrap/donor harnesses are the place to shop for that stuff.
We'll see when it comes time. I really hate the underhood harness anyway. For now it just needs to fire up. I can figure out lights, signals, wipers, gauges later.
I've used those kits multiple times. In my own stuff, and one customer car.
Make sure the fuse terminals are tight. Dont expect thick insulation. Or oversized wire for the circuits. Expect bare minimum of gauge and insulation. No ground wires, instructions are crap, and throw away the terminals that come with it.
However, its the cheapest way to get a new fuse panel and bulk colored and labeled wire.
Fyi: im a wiring elitist.....
Dusterbd13-michael (Forum Supporter) said:I've used those kits multiple times. In my own stuff, and one customer car.
Make sure the fuse terminals are tight. Dont expect thick insulation. Or oversized wire for the circuits. Expect bare minimum of gauge and insulation. No ground wires, instructions are crap, and throw away the terminals that come with it.
However, its the cheapest way to get a new fuse panel and bulk colored and labeled wire.
Fyi: im a wiring elitist.....
I do want something very good if I am to do anything beyond GM OEM. The fuse block and in-cab stuff is fine, really. It's just the underhood stuff, the headlight relays, the gauge connections and the bed wiring that I need.
In reply to tuna55 :
Dont get me wrong: the duster has a cheap Chinese harness. HOWEVER i knew the limitations going in, and how to make it work in my application. So, if you decide to go that way, go in with eyes wide open.
They are honestly on par wire materials wise as modern painless wire. Which is not a compliment to painless. American autowire is the best stuff ive used in years, but exorbitantly expensive.
Dusterbd13-michael (Forum Supporter) said:In reply to tuna55 :
Dont get me wrong: the duster has a cheap Chinese harness. HOWEVER i knew the limitations going in, and how to make it work in my application. So, if you decide to go that way, go in with eyes wide open.
They are honestly on par wire materials wise as modern painless wire. Which is not a compliment to painless. American autowire is the best stuff ive used in years, but exorbitantly expensive.
I saw your post on another thread and I take heed to your advice. It's OEM or better for this thing, so I'll piece it together when it comes time. I suppose it's time, though, really. I'll start seeing what goes where.
I painted the calipers, cleaned out the entire bed, and got a bit closer as I await a new fiscal month for buying brakes.
Can't tell you how glad I am to see this moving again. Partly because I hope it signals a return to your old self health wise?
NOHOME said:Can't tell you how glad I am to see this moving again. Partly because I hope it signals a return to your old self health wise?
That's probably accurate. My health is pretty good, though I'd love it if this virus would go away and I could get back to the gym. Early morning bike rides with a kid or two have helped a lot, too.
Some of it is money, too.
Sorry for taking a long time and taking zero pictures, but I have been puttering along. The brake parts arrived. I rebuilt the front calipers. I plopped a few brake lines in. I realized that I don't have the throttle cable bracket, so I ordered a nice Lokar unit, only to find out (after isntallation) that it only works with the Lokar cable. Summit told me to pound sand, so I'll spend my money elsewhere.
I used a cheap Chinese throttle cable setup with the lokar bracket on my duster. Got it on Ebay
I spent an hour yesterday throwing brake parts on, only to discover, for the first time ever in my history, that I didn't get a comprehensive drum brake spring kit.
I have the axle lines sitting there roughly in place, and the front/back lines also roughly in place.
I know this stinks without pictures, but my telephone machine was out of batteries.
I:
located and cleaned the caliper sliders
located, cleaned and painted the throttle bracket
removed, cleaned and painted the rubber line mount
removed, cleaned, welded up (had a big crack/cut) and painted the other rubber line mount
Ran the knotted wire wheel into my thumb, and then called it a night.
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