In reply to tuna55 :
Doing brakes on the Ford also. Just finished plumbing the master, front/rear proportioning valve and front brakes.
The Ni-Cop lines make this almost too easy. They bend easy, don't kink and take a flare fuss-free. Looks like a 40" roll is going to get the job done.
Pete
Where can I buy this spring???
rear drum brake hardware kit made by Carlson or any other aftermarket company. FLAPS will have the kit on the shelf for about $7. i don't think you can buy separately.
EDIT: Dang, I can't find a kit that specifically shows that spring. Lemme talk to my buddy at Carlson. It's gotta be available somewhere.
I looked in the magic box of crap and don't have any.
In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :
I have it, along with lots like it, and none of them has that spring:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/gmc,1972,c15/c1500+pickup,5.7l+350cid+v8,1405932
LMC Truck has them for $3/pr.
SkinnyG (Forum Supporter) said:LMC Truck has them for $3/pr.
Thanks!
They look wrong in that picture, so I didn't buy them, but that description got me here:
And those look exactly right, so I bought them.
well, nevermind then. good find, SkinnyG!
Rear brakes are assembled with new wheel cylinders. Rear lines are laid in place and the one long line is there as well.
No pictures because it's hard to get them from under there. Getting closer, even as time gets tighter!
Rear lines are done and the lines follow the fuel lines nicely along the framerail. The front is next, but man I am slow these days.
tuna55 said:Rear lines are done and the lines follow the fuel lines nicely along the framerail. The front is next, but man I am slow these days.
Keep going! I am using your build as motivation to get the Ford F2 moving under it's own power. Hope to button up the brakes and bleed the system this WE.
NOHOME said:tuna55 said:Rear lines are done and the lines follow the fuel lines nicely along the framerail. The front is next, but man I am slow these days.
Keep going! I am using your build as motivation to get the Ford F2 moving under it's own power. Hope to button up the brakes and bleed the system this WE.
I'm not much motivation these days! I am trying to learn guitar, and kiddo activities keep getting later and later. Last night I got the kids to bed around 9:30, did school prep stuff until ten, then spent an hour fixing kids bike before I could -start- on the truck. I spent a few minutes staring at it, willing the lines to install themselves, but when I got on the cold, hard, dusty concrete it started to feel like home and work proceeded until I knew it was Late:30.
In reply to tuna55 :
I hear ya on that first lay down on the concrete. But at over 60, the only thing that lets me crawl around down under a car is doing just that, I am not going to complain for as long as I can keep going.
Depending on how this goes, we might both be painting trucks in the spring.
All brake lines are in. The fronts have to be better aligned with each other and attached to really satisfy me, and I don't have banjo bolts for some reason. I'm just a few days from putting fluid in, with my recent sporadic, 2-3 days per week schedule.
Here is the master I was considering.
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Aluminum-Master-Cylinder-w-Stainless-Bore,50598.html
In reply to tuna55 :
Looks reasonable. I have come to appreciate the little bench bleed kit that comes with this item. Is is a small thing, but makes a messy job easier.
That said, if yours is still working, chances are the bore is fine and for the cost of a few seals, it will last another good long time. Time or money, your choice. I tend to spend money to save calendar days.
Some interesting geography to those brake lines. To their credit, they do have the OEM look to them. But they also have a few "WTF were they thinking?" shapes and bends.
The lines at the MC look like they could be cleaned up visually with a simple re-clocking of the one line. The artistry in the short rear one is one of the WTF? examples.
The rear MC-Prop line is bent so that movement can happen and not crack it. That one actually makes sense. I think you nailed the issue with the front leaving the prop valve. I'll work on that too.
In reply to tuna55 :
I dont think that the factory was all that hung up on pretty routing. If that is the goal, then you need to roll your own out of NiCop.
One of the reasons I have hesitated to start bending my own stuff is that GM chose different sizes for each fitting and for each line, I thought it easier to stay with OEM style since I was staying with OEM sizes. And retrospect they were probably better ways to solve that problem.
I did reclock and it looks pretty much better, but still not very good generally.
I also learned an important detail about installing the output shaft seal on an MY6 transmission. You have to install it. That's right, this whole time there was never a seal with transmission, I apparently just left it out. Honestly the one I installed did not go in very well but at least it's there now.
Nice being patient with me by the way, I was on vacation for a while.
Even after I replaced the rear seal,bI still have a leak. Not from the driveshaft either. Grrrr.
OK I am seriously demotivated due to the transmission leak. Most of the pictures from around page 60 were photobucketed, and I can't tell if I used gaskets where they belonged, and I can't easily tell where the leak is coming from. I know that I didn't have any parts left over when I rebuilt it. It's not the driveshaft seal anymore. I guess I need to pull it back out? I am really "cobbling together and exhaust", "buying the cheapest plastic seat Jegs has" and "reconnecting the wiring" away from moving this thing.
Any advice?
tuna55 said:Nice being patient with me by the way, I was on vacation for a while.
Tman very well done carry on!!!!!
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