It's interesting that you have the rear window wiper on the left side of the radio. I don't understand why that's there.
Fire sure. I hope it's all good
It's interesting that you have the rear window wiper on the left side of the radio. I don't understand why that's there.
Fire sure. I hope it's all good
AAZCD (Forum Supporter) said:Don't panic.
Yes to:
- Dropping the pan and seeing what's in there.
- Oil analysis.
- Filter magnet: http://986forum.com/forums/diy-project-guides/51025-diy-magnetic-oil-filtering.html , I love this place for magnets: https://www.kjmagnetics.com/categories.asp?cat=9
It may or may not be related to the IMS bearing. It could be 'normal wear'. Talk to a good Porsche Specialist shop about the IMS replacement. They should discuss 'Qualifying' your engine for an LN bearing replacement. If you have already found ferrous metal that is from the IMS bearing, it may be a better choice to do a further rebuild or engine replacement.
Fully agree with AAZCD on his points made Don't lose your mind about some metal fragments in the filter media.
When I bought my 2000 Boxster in 2011 as an 11 year old car, I found metal shavings in the filter at my first oil change and thought the world was going to end. I did a couple of back to back oil changes and did the IMSR procedure anyway, along with a magnetic drain plug.
Almost immediately after two back to back oil changes, I had no more shavings.
Shortly after, I did away with that evil pleated paper filter and its plastic housing and switched to a spin-on oil filter adapter that takes a standard anti-bypass metal casing NAPA Auto parts oil filter.
All has been good for the interim 9 years I've been enjoying the car.
Yeah, and definitely get one of those Bluetooth dongles. They rock.
It's pretty awesome listening to the XM app and using Waze on my phone in a 20 year old car.
As an install tip, remove the cup holders to guide it in behind the radio as you reinstall it. The wires on the Bluetooth adapter are really fragile and I ruined my first one not putting it back together this way.
Best of luck with your Boxster, they truly are amazing little cars
BoxsterSteve! Happy to see you at GRM.
Dropped the pan, and it was clean. I couldn't find debris of any kind in it:
So I examined the filter more closely. Here's a pic showing how much debris was actually in it:
Actually, most of it seems to be non-ferrous, in fact, not metal at all. It seems to be mostly black plastic. There is metal in there, but not as much as I thought.
So, that's good and bad, right? Good because whatever's circulating in my engine is mostly being caught by the filter, though I'm sure the smaller stuff has gotten through and caused some wear. And there's not nearly as much metal as I thought. But, black plastic probably means timing chain guides, right? How long can I afford to let those go?
Next step is to get the oil analyzed. Depending on what they say about metals and other contaminants will determine what comes after that. If everything is reasonably OK, I'll probably change out the IMS, then do a couple of flushes with thin oil, put spin-on filter adapter and magnetic drain plug, and call it good.
get your cam deviation numbers.
See the sealant around your sump plate? How does the color compare to that? Use a MINIMAL amount of sealant putting the sump back on. Extra sealant makes 'snakes'. Snakes clog the oil pickup tube strainer.
Some chain ramp wear (small bits like that occasionally) is normal. +1 on the cam deviation numbers to see if it is a significant factor.
So, now I need to buy Durametric? Lovely...
AAZCD (Forum Supporter) said:
Thanks..
My son and I decided to get a MINI Cooper to rehab and the thread is on here.
In reply to Tom_Spangler (Forum Supporter) :
A Durametric is a great tool to have and I still don't have one after 9 years of ownership.
My local Indie checked cam deviation numbers for me a few years back. One deviation value was slightly over spec, but I'm not ready to rip into the engine to change out the small Variocam wear pads because of it.
Apparently the car will throw a CEL when the values get too high.
If it happens before I need a clutch, it will get addressed at that time.
Tom_Spangler (Forum Supporter) said:So, now I need to buy Durametric? Lovely...
Cool tool. I never got one either. I did get a cheap Chinese cable out of curiosity when I first started out with Boxsters, but they are junk. If you are worried, if it will give you peace of mind to know, check the cam deviation (buy or borrow the tool or have a shop check.)
If it was me (and it once was), I'd drive and enjoy the car. Pull and replace the filter in 500 miles or so to take a look. The oil does not drain when you pull the filter. Eventually you'll make it all the way to the next oil change and feel better.
I need to get a Durametric too. It just kills me that my Vag-Com doesn't read Porsches. I have an icarsoft POR-II that I use for the Cayenne diesel but it's not nearly as good as a Durametric and it also won't read my 996.
AAZCD (Forum Supporter) said:Cool tool. I never got one either. I did get a cheap Chinese cable out of curiosity when I first started out with Boxsters, but they are junk. If you are worried, if it will give you peace of mind to know, check the cam deviation (buy or borrow the tool or have a shop check.)
Yeah, I have one of those cheap USB-OBDII cables, I use it with FORscan on my Fords, and it works fine. I don't suppose there's a Porsche freeware equivalent to FORscan? 
If it was me (and it once was), I'd drive and enjoy the car. Pull and replace the filter in 500 miles or so to take a look. The oil does not drain when you pull the filter. Eventually you'll make it all the way to the next oil change and feel better.
Yeah, maybe that's what I'll do. Still gotta do the wheel bearings, but after that I'll put the pan back on, put fresh oil in it, and drive it until I put it down for the winter in October-ish, then re-evaluate.
Unsurprisingly there is no freeware scan tool for Porsche's.
In reply to docwyte :
Seems like a wild gap in the market.
I don't have duranetric either and feel a little better about that knowing I'm not alone. It's a lot of coin for something that can only be used with a limited number of cars.
In reply to spandak :
Not really. If you want to work on an VW/Audi, you need to buy Vag-Com. A Durametric isn't that expensive and works on all Porsches. Pretty typical German car thing...
The enthusiast version logs the vin of the car and will only work on 3 I think it is. After that you have to buy another one.
That's the part that stings for me. A few hundred bucks is okay if I can use it indefinitely or sell it to someone else but the idea of limiting it like that makes it difficult for me to want to spend the money. Especially on a sub $10k car. Just my personal feelings
Once I have it on the road again, I'll probably take it to Steve's European and have them check it.
In reply to spandak :
Then buy the Durametric Pro, it has unlimited VIN's and you can resell it if you want. I never sell tools, I may need it again in the future. Vag-Com has gone that way too, with limited VIN's and charging more for a totally unlimited version.
So, while I wait for my oil analysis results from Blackstone, I decided to take on my wheel bearings. I got the passengers side off today:
Keep in mind, this is the "good" side, the quieter one. Still need to get the inner race off the retainer, I haven't found the right combination of pullers to remove it yet.
I also discovered my outer CV boot is torn:
Sorry for the blurry pic. So, I have a boot replacement kit on the way from Pelican, as well as new rotor screws, since I had to drill the heads off the old ones because they didn't want to turn. Naturally.
Edit: doh!
So, my Blackstone report looks.... surprisingly good?
Looks good. Go drive that car.
Delete/black out your personal info from the report? Having phone, home, and email out here in the wild can lead to troubles. It's not just us nice car guys that browse these forums.
Edit: Here you go:
AAZCD (Forum Supporter) said:Delete/black out your personal info from the report? Having phone, home, and email out here in the wild can lead to troubles. It's not just us nice car guys that browse these forums.
Yup, good idea but before you do, hello neighbor!
AAZCD (Forum Supporter) said:Looks good. Go drive that car.
Delete/black out your personal info from the report? Having phone, home, and email out here in the wild can lead to troubles. It's not just us nice car guys that browse these forums.
Whoah, good catch! That's what I get for being in a hurry!
Anyhow, I'm pretty pleased with the report. As soon as I get my parts in to replace the halfshaft boot and get the car put back together, Imma drive the crap out of it!
Got one axle out:
Both CV boots are torn. It's the same for the other axle.
So, what to do? I already bought the whole axle boot/clamp/grease kit from Pelican, so I could just replace all that and put them back on. Other options would be to have a drivetrain shop rebuild my stock axles, or go aftermarket. Or, you know, spend $900 each on new Porsche axles.
I've decided for now to go aftermarket, specifically, these Autozone Gold axles that are $100 each. Now, I've read all the horror stories about cheap Chinese axles, and these are certainly that. According to my research, they are made by Wonh Industries and sold under several brand names. But, I'm OK with rolling the dice on these for a few reasons. One, they have a lifetime warranty at a brick-and-mortar store that's 5 miles from my house. So if they turn out to be junk, I can easily return them. Two, I've used them on other cars without a problem, and I refuse to believe that just because this thing has a "Porsche" badge on it, it's that different from anything else when it comes to CV axles. And three, I'm going to keep my factory axles, and if the Autozone ones fail, I'll get them rebuilt and put them back on.
For those who are curious, here's a good thread on BITOG about the various types of axles that are out there: https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/cv-front-drive-axle-recommendation.274483/
Tom_Spangler (Forum Supporter) said:For those who are curious, here's a good thread on BITOG about the various types of axles that are out there: https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/cv-front-drive-axle-recommendation.274483/
Thanks for that, I've een debating getting a cheap set of axles from Rockauto for my E28, I think I'll give the Wonh axles a try and see how it goes. The originals have so much play in them at this point but it should be a fairly low stress application with a rear wheel drive car.
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